The route begins on the first pitch of Fetal Rearrangement by climbing 5.8 past the first 5-6 bolts. Once you hit the base of the roof go right on an old rusted bolt and rivet, start nailing here. Aside from a fixed rurp, only three placements are needed to hit the anchors. Socal Aid climber has this pitch at A3 but its much easier, call it A2.

Pitch 2 starts on an old aluminum bolt into a diagonal crack where the rock quality diminishes slightly. Nail the crack to the top. A3

Pucker Power

Bottom Feeder

Peter Principle

Feetal Rearrangement

Unexpected Difficulties

Hang Thang

Hoochie Mama

Pigeon, The Other White Meat

Whiplash

Mantlepiece

Cling Thing

Marathon Man

Mantle Marathon

Shattered Dreams

Super Fucking Rad (S.F.R.)

Goody Two Shoes

Start on some whitish rock and climb up for two bolts before starting a rising traverse up and left to anchors below the large roof. There's a balancy move past the 2nd and 5th bolts and the use of long draws or slings is recommended to cut down on any potential rope drag.

Note: this is only the first pitch of a three pitch route (the other pitches are 5.10c and A2) but can be enjoyed on it's own as one of the best easy offerings at the Riverside Quarry.

Easy slab into a shallow, flared dihedral where you stem and undercling trying to reach a distant but out of reach edge. Higher, continue up to a committing stand-up move past the 5th bolt as you move onto a relatively blank slab and finish with a few more delicate moves to the anchor.

Features a height-dependent bouldery crux that, although out of character with the rest of the route, is the highlight.

Steeper than it looks and fairly sustained despite it's length, this route favors finger strength and technique above all.

Good edges and a balancy layaway past the first bolt gain a distant horizontal crack and the 2nd bolt. Catch a rest then punch it up the smooth face above using good finger edges with tricky footwork. Once the third bolt is reached the difficulty eases and the character of the route changes as you lieback along a sharp arete onto a ledge and finish with some thin slab to anchors.

A fun outing for the area well worth a spin if climbing at the grade.

This route follows the obvious jagged crack on the far left of Slab city. There are not very many trad routes at the Riverside Quarry, this is one of the few. The initial part of the crack is very steep, and getting pro in will pump you out. It does not get climbed very much so it is a little dusty, also pigeons and swallows love the crack so it can be a little poopy in areas. (I noticed though that it only gets poopy if you get off route, it may have changed since I last climbed it though Summer 06)

Boulder onto a sloping ledge and then make reachy moves between big holds to a tricky lieback to gaston crux at the 3rd bolt. Continue up the slab above to join Cling Thing after the 4th bolt and finish up that route via a stemming corner and flake/arete to shared anchors.

Great climbing down below and fun moves up high on this route but the slabby middle section detracts somewhat from the overall quality.

This fun route starts up an overhanging section through the first three bolts with fun moves, then continues past a couple more bolts as you walk up the low angled slab through the middle section.  The final couple of bolts provide the crux as you pull a roof with a crack on good holds for your hands, and not much for your feet.

This route is essentially a link-up of two existing routes, but it does climb some new terrain and is one the easier offerings in the immediate vicinity.

Climb

Shattered Dreams

for it's first two bolts and then cut sharply left into a nice steep hand crack. Work up into an alcove formed by stacked blocks and then into a high undercling. Power over the bulge on reachy jugs and then run it out a little on easier ground to join

Peter Principle

for it's last two bolts and anchors.

It's possible to cut right to the anchors on Shattered Dreams as well, but you'll be making the finishing mantle quite far from your last bolt while looking at a bad fall onto a ledge.

Steep, athletic and fun climbing at a moderate grade make this a nice warm-up for the area. Note: it's advised to clip the 2nd and 3rd bolt with long draws to lessen any possible rope drag.

Broken terrain past a bolt gains a ledge and a tricky stand-up move along the arete past the 2nd bolt to get established on another ledge. The crux is above the third bolt as you lock off some good edges on either side of the arete to gain a curving edge and clip the 4th bolt. Past this a reachy move to steep jugs leads to a final ledge and a finishes up a thin slab to anchors.

Fun moves on this but the numerous ledges break up the flow of the climbing and detract from the overall experience. This would be a good route for those transitioning from bouldering or those with limited endurance.

Start by climbing up onto a large shelf. After clipping the 1st bolt move left up onto a sloping ledge and move right in order to clip the 2nd bolt. Make the crux moves up and to the right to gain the left leaning groove, and the 3rd bolt.

Continue up the groove to clip the 4th bolt and then continue up with the last three bolts of Bottom Feeder.

Another option on this route is to cut left after the third bolt to finish up

Mantle Marathon

.

Boulder onto a sloping ledge, lean back to clip the 1st bolt on this route and go. Steep climbing on big holds to a long move (crux) just past the 2nd bolt. Continue up an easy slab (Hang Thang joins this route at the 4th bolt) to a short, right-facing dihedral with a perfect hand crack and finish along the arete of a large flake.

Good climbing on this at the bottom and top but the uninteresting slab in the middle detracts a bit from the overall quality. It's advised to clip the 1st bolt on the route just right (

Hang Thang

) with a double draw to keep the rope out of your way when moving past the 1st bolt of this route.

A steep and somewhat tricky start along a faint arete gains a ledge past the 3rd bolt. Continue up the slab above, pull a small roof at the 6th bolt and then continue up easy slab to anchors below the left side of a large roof.

The route, appropriately enough, starts with a mantle (which can be harder than necessary if you miss the sequence). Higher, slabs and corners with the odd mantle thrown in gain another easier crux at the 6th bolt. The route finishes with a fun slab, passing an old, rusty bolt (7th) before reaching the anchors under a large roof.

The climbing is cerebral but also goes with a bit of thuggery in spots, which actually makes this several climbs in one.

Start the climb directly (or by coming in from the right by liebacking up a block) and then climb the vertical zig-zag crack via liebacking, face climbing and even some jamming to a tricky scrunch move (crux) at the last bolt to finish on a ledge with anchors. Note: the use of long draws on bolts 4 and 5 is advised to keep the rope away from the sharp edge of the crack.

The route features moderate, big-hold climbing for most of it's length and despite the somewhat awkward crux at the top makes an excellent warm-up for the more difficult routes nearby. Also, be aware that the "Pigeon Hotel" (located between bolts #5 and #6) is currently open for business - so plan accordingly.

The route starts following a flake on a low roof, followed by a tricky transition onto the face. It eases up until you reach the second roof, which leads to sustained and powerful climbing on mostly jugs with poor feet.

This route is quite fun, easy climbing to the 4th bolt then it gets steep, getting over the head wall is the crux, small feet almost no hands, well protected though.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Slab City (Left)