Wild

Ferguson

funk up an arete. As interesting as it's

neighbor

, albeit more direct, this mixed line offers a touch of everything.

Start on a belay platform and scurry up to a thin crack on the left-side of the face. Follow cracks up 5 feet to a large, scooping horn. Pull into an obvious crack and follow it through the face to the top of the buttress. You'll come across some thoughtful gear with good stances and a single bolt that protects the crux. Originally done going straight up the thin crack, using the only the arete and avoiding completely avoiding anything to the right or the corner.

Descend via a quick and easy walk-off back and to the left.

This route has an anchor that comes and goes? People like to steal shiny things?  Be prepared to build your own anchor, clip the pre-slung block, or do both. Easy to top-rope.

Arete Bernadette

Arete Juliete

Goldenfingers

Grillin' Swillin' & Chillin'

Fool's Gold

OtherWorld

Goldbagger

Golden Oldie

Garden of Gordon

Stone They Rejected

Above and around the corner from

Goldfinger

is a rounded and striking arete. This blank and lightly featured face is

Arete Juliete

. Particular protection and intimidating moves make this line a bold undertaking. This climb sees low amounts of traffic yielding flaky and brittle terrain.

Start off-balance with blank feet and blunt hands. A dynamic move gains a long shallow edge. Rock onto this small ledge, place a piece then ride the arete up and left past a bolt. Stay low and on the face avoiding the temptation to rock over too soon. Squeeze the blunt arete and slab up and left across the face. Clip another bolt and keep trust in what follows! A few sketchy moves unveil a good surprise, mantle up and over at the lines apex.

On the right face of the wall you will see a finger crack that starts about 10-15 feet above the ground.  This is your goal.  Startalmost below the bolted line to the right, attain the leftward diagonalling cracks and move left until you can make the finger crack.  The bolt protects the crux.  However, the funnest part is the lunge for the flake near the top.  I later tried to climb the direct line and realized why you start right.

The crux might be staying on the line. But if you do it's quite fun.

Pull up into Otherworld and step out right onto cool crystals and horizontals. Keep to the right of the gash staying on the arete. Near the top step back over to the left and climb up a wide section of rock to the anchor.

Many

Goldenfingers

climbers have witnessed the squirrels using this gulley for travel to and from the rim to the forest floor.

Soloed many times before.

If you like dirty chimneys you'll love this lil' beauty. Lots of crystals make for some fun moves when your not climbing in the back of this dirty gash.

Climb the arete using knobs and small crystals. Gain a slab stance about half way up and clip the only bolt. Friction your way up the remaining face aiming for a thin crack. Top it out and give yourself a high five.

Back-wall dabbing the start is highly discouraged.

If it looks easy, its probably hard!!

A puzzling start on the smoothest of granite. A route that demands attention, precision, and a will to live. Thin and begging for balance,

Golden Oldie

climbs past three bolts to a right facing flake. Repeat after me: Strenuous!

Start in the chimney and move out onto a ledge between the arete and the chimney.  Follow the crack to the bulge and pull over to the top.  Nothing really strenuous or technical.

This is a must do in the canyon! Put your crimp skills to the test. The crux is after the 2nd bolt. Little run between 3rd and 4th bolt but mellow for sure. Good mantle at the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Goldenfingers Wall