Climb the Dihedral to the right of Mickey Mantle using the crack and face holds.

(I'm not sure if we were the first to climb this so if you know if it was done earlier, please say so and I'll change that info.  Thanks.)

Minnie's in the Hole

Gravitational Attraction

Mason Goes to School

Keystone Arete

Solar Eclipse

Galactic Cannibalism

Dark Matter

Lefty's Paradise?

Right Aaaarm!!!

Don't Tell Trevor

Safety Not

Moses Had a Stick Clip

Camlock

Black Hole Sun

Unknown 5.8

Noahs Ark

Sungrazer

Mickey Mantle

Oh My Hell

Hippy's at Bat

Lunar Orbit

Degenerate Matter

Unknown Reality

Oh My Heck

Volcanic Therapy

Black Friday

Cyclops

Unknown

Casual Slander

Jerry's on Deck

Oh Shit

Black Dwarf

Standing on Faith

Objective Reality

Stem Album

Particulate Matter

Nuclear Decay

Jesus Wore Tevas

Small crimps to obvious mantel, then pockets to top.

Juggy, well bolted climbing and good cracks.

A small balancy crux down low gets you up to superb pocket and edge climbing up the stellar prow.

Located on the sunny side about 15ft left of where the trail meets the wall.  Follow a handful of bolts between two cracks in an open corner.  Thin edges lead you to an anchor.

Another great route on a slightly overhang black face.  This route is located about 40ft left of the trail on the sunny side in an alcove.  Great pockets and edges combine for a good pump.

A powerful yet balancy crux up a steep face with small edges and pockets.

Climb the dihedral to the left of Standing on Faith.  The crux of the route is topping out.

Start up blocky rock pile to the left of "The Nest" route and then climb the super sharp hand crack using good/painful jams and face holds.  the crux is the first couple of moves in the crack.

(I'm not sure if we were the first to climb this, but it was really dirty when we climbed it.  If you know if it was done earlier, please say so and I'll change that info.  Thanks.)

Fun route with a somewhat hard start and a couple awkward moves in the middle. Finishes off with a fun juggy roof move.

I'm sure we weren't the first ones to do this route. Let me know and i'll correct the information.

sit start with an undercling in the little cave lookin thing. then big reach for a jug. Grab the side of the boulder and climb up

A 3 star route for the area.  Boulder up to the first high clip, pull 5.9 moves before making it.  Follow a great face on and to the left of an arete.  This climb is located about 35ft left of the trail on the sunny side.

Easy up to the top where there is a tiny overhang and a 4-5 foot crack to jam.

Located about 10 feet to the right of where the trail joins the sunny side wall.  Follow four bolt up edges to a finish on a small column.

Short but fun.  This is a great crack that is just a nice, fun warmup.  I was too busy enjoying myself to notice a crux, but the loose block (pretty well wedged in there) was a little spooky.  Unfortunately, the route is really short, but that isn't too different from other routes in the area.

Noahs Ark because we finally got to climb after all the rain and snow.

Start up Blocks to a dihedral with a fun and easy roof.  Lots of big holds and great placements up the entire route.

(I'm not sure if we were the first to climb this so if you know if it was done earlier, please say so and I'll change that info.  Thanks.)

A good warmup climb for the area.  Located on the sunny side where the trail joins the wall.  Follow a thin crack, edges and pockets to an anchor with bolts separted by 2-3ft. (bring long slings for TR)  A harder variation (5.9) avoids the crack on the thin face to the right.

Located on the sunny side about 25ft to the left of the trail.  Pull through a low roof, and follow steep edges and pockets up the black face to the right of the arete.  A few long reaches are found along the way.

This climb doesn't really start until you have climbed to the top of a pile of blocks. Once you get to the short face, fun pockets lead the way to the top.

A steep, reasonably enjoyable start and crux with the most difficult part occurring around the second bolt. A bit of side-pulling and body positioning make the start a bit of fun. The angle then eases and it's fairly straightforward pockets to the top.

A powerful and awkward start trends left to a desperate clip and then leads you to a steep prow with fun pockets.

Unknown Reality starts out in a wide, flaring corner with rounded edges.  A small roof complicates things at this cruxy start.  You have several options, all of which are technical (or crazy), barn door to a lieback stance, chickenwing the offwidth to some big fist jams (my fists are too small) or pull over the small roof on bad crimps just to the right before swinging back into the crack.  After the crux, there is significantly easier climbing in the crack with ample stemming opportunities.  The top third is the easiest part of all, weighing in at a mere 5.7.  The guidebook beta I had gave this a 5.9 rating (dr.topo), so it is possible that there is a trick to this route (see various rants on ratings in forum discussions).  IMHO, there are far better routes to try at this area.  On a more positve note, this would be a fun alternative start to Solar Eclipse.

This route climbs edges and pockets past four bolts on the left side of the arete between oh my hell and oh shit.  The guidebook says to clip the bolts on oh my hell but the route now has its own bolts.  The crux is probably between the first and second bolts, then the route just gets easier the higher you get.  Decently fun for being all of thirty feet tall.

Basalt edges and pockets. Probably not worth the effort to set up the top rope since Standing on Faith (directly left and shared anchor) is more straightforward to set up and is more fun.

Start up the slabby opening bit, clipping the first bolt on the way. Stand up as it steepens and clip the second bolt. Find some obvious holds, and work out how to get past the blankness to the tantalizing, obvious hold above.

After figuring it out, enjoy the pockets to the top.

Route is the furthest right on the Sunny Side of the canyon.  Small edges and holds lead to a ledge and then to a large pocket (which makes the route name apt), followed by edging to the anchors.

Sustained climb on good pockets. Big movements.

Awkward climb, very chossy top. Be carefuly when you clip the anchors because rocks above anchor bolts may break.

Finger- to hand-crack start, then edges and fun pockets. Route is about 30 feet right of where the trail meets the "sunny side" wall. The route forms a loose, 3-sided box with "Standing on Faith" and "Volcanic Therapy."

The anchor is easily accessible from the top; walk right along the cliff until an obvious route to the top is found.

A fairly short but fun climb with some strange holds and movement.

Weird climbing out of a flaring crack and over a block gains a pocket filled face. Awkward moves and a few funky clips add to the routes character. Steep, odd, and in your face!

Hard to read climbing makes this route feel a lot longer than it really is.

This climb is located on the sunny side about 5 feet to the right of where the trail joins the wall.  Start on a detached flake and make a high 1st clip.  The crux involves long reaches around a bulge.  Good footwork is key.

Finger crack, big edges, and pockets on solid basalt. Route is 30 or so feet to the right of where trail joins the "sunny side" wall. "Casual Slander", "Standing on Faith" (this route), and "Volcanic Therapy" form a loose, 3-sided box.

Access the anchor by walking to the right until an obvious way to the top is found. Slings are needed to extend the anchor point over the edge.

A much more logical route than Solar Eclipse, Objective Reality follows a natural line that protect well with good nut placements.  The start is a little reachy and technical, but the slightly overhanging crack at the top is where the fun is at.  After pulling on pockets and crimping on edges all day, it sure feels nice to sink your hands in a crack and lieback.

Go up the dihedral with solid protection. Top out is pretty sketchy since you feel like you are going to pull out all of the rocks and destroy your belayers noggin. super fun and killer feet for placements.

Steep and dirty climbing up a corner to a roof with pockets.

Nuclear Decay climbs a face on the right side of an arete.  Climbing in the crack in the dihedral to the right is even easier, but not nearly as fun.  There are some cool pockets on this route, and offers decent placement opportunities.  Just remember that once you sink a piece in a pocket, it is no longer very useful as a hold.  For top roping, you can climb a variation on the arete or on the left side of the arete as well.

Climb to the first bolt of

Moses Had a Stick Clip

(a stick clip might be wise), and then climb on the right side of the arete through three more bolts. Getting through the second and third bolts is thin, then it's pockets to the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sunny Side