This route is two routes right of '

Meatballs in Space

.'  It is a great warm up in conjunction with the neighboring mystery 11a to the left.

A Squirrel, a Mole, and a Chicken

Is it Nihilism or Nihilism? (Guess it Doesn't Matter)

Lodgepole

When The Bottle Gets Empty

Crack Seam

Pinkies Up

Closed Project (Working name: There Will be Blood..and Cows)

Doobies At Dawn

Transplant

Meatballs in Space

Blank Check

Pinche Moscas

Cosmo's Crack Garden

Bourbon By Nine

Weird Science

This is a great route despite some suspect rock toward the start. The crux is up high with a very thoughtful sequence.

Start with hand jams under the roof and tiny feet, moving left up the crack while stemming feet. There are a couple bomber fists, and when the crack runs out in the middle, look to the right face. I recommend wearing crack gloves unless you lieback the whole thing.

After cleaning and putting in anchors, I originally did the FA on gear, but because this is a sports crag, I went ahead and bolted the line. It can be led with a single rack, 0.3-3.

This climbs the right-facing corner to the left of a large tree, left of

Meatballs in Space

. It has good climbing that has cleaned up nicely with lots of jugs on steep rock.

Climb the thin seam from a good start hold. Hang on tightly through the low crux. It is fun climbing to the chains.

This ascends the finger crack to the right of the "Blank Check" project. Climb fun fingerlocks and sidepulls to a good rest, and surmount a small bulge to gain the anchors.

This is a short, hard, sustained yet fun route. Only holds on the Wall are the holds you need. There may or may not be pinky undercling rest. It is very fun!

The holds runout after bolt 2. It remains hard until the chains.

Start directly under the two jugs, or traverse in from the right fold up the bulge. Start into the crack, and find your feet. Make your way to the clipping jugs, then gain the right sidepull. Push/stem your way up to a good crimp and plenty of jugs to the anchors.

Fun, balanced slab moves lead to fun steps and pulls on positive holds.

Get ready to fly like a meatball! Clip the first bolt, the courtesy bolt, and prepare for a battle to the anchor.  The crux comes after making a hard clip at the fourth bolt.  Master a sequence left of the fourth and fifth bolts to gain a marginal rest and hand traverse on positive holds.  If you're not flying high like a pastafarian yet, muster all your marinara and continue up, staying a little farther right of the upper corner than might be desirable.  A traverse back left from the corner and a few hard moves guard the anchor.  There is a high possibility for logging a little air time on this one.  It is best to lead it. Toproping it is a little problematic due to the overhanging and traversing nature of the route.  We figured it was on the upper end of 5.12, a challenging send no doubt.

Nasty tech weirdness up a seam feature leads to a big break. Continue with an easier but surprisingly difficult finale out the "5.10" bulge, which can be surmounted by looping left or right.

The movement is cool, and there is some nice rock, so if it was a little less sharp, a little longer, and didn't have the break, it would almost be a classic...almost. It did seem pretty hard though, which is always a redeeming feature, although it's probably 8a+ in 1984 Eldo grades.

Apparently this was a long abandoned Luke Laeser project. I'm unsure if anyone had actually tried it much over the years. The bottom seemed like it had been climbed on a bit, but the top was untraveled. Good training crag if you are planning a European tour of obscure, miniature1980s vertical limestone.

"Gold Hangers" and the "Slab Compressor," located 10 minutes downstream, look like they deserve more love.

This challenging little route has a fun challenging boulder problem. It felt more like V4 / low 5.12 to me, but maybe I missed something. Expect old school bolting and to be pulling the crux a bit above the second bolt.

Climb relatively easy ground to the first bolt, and enter a small, left-facing corner system for the second bolt. Make an easy clip, and set up for the crux. Some powerful and committing moves take you up to good holds and the 3rd bolt. Climb easier ground to the anchor.

Start up the right facing crack for three bolts (crux) to easier climbing for three more bolts, then this route splits with two different finishes.

This has good climbing that only gets harder to a crux just below the chains. It is great fun!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Blank Check Wall