Button up your suit for this fun moderate. Scramble onto the same ledge as for the start of Underachiever and move immediately left into an excellent short finger crack. Place a couple finger cams and climb the crack to a high first bolt. Trend right following bolts to some cruxy face moves before briefly gaining the arete. Finish up the final head wall on side pulls and jugs.

Dressed for Success

Pat My Weenie

Dressed to Kill

T.R. Center Seam

Zachs Crack

Pet My Kitty

Atilla: To Brooks/ Walker

Unknown 2

Slim Shady

Stem Cell

Grey Matter

Unknown 3

2001 Space Odyssey

Landmine Area

Unknown 1

Stop The Bombing

Eyes Wide Shut

Quantam Wave

Spit It Out

Underachiever

Antimatter Arete

Animist Core

Spangler/Turecki

Porter/ Oswald

The Last Wookie

Book Of Changes

Higher Calling

Buddhas Delight

Dressed to Kill is the easiest climb at Wiener Lake but the loose rock keeps the masses away. Start up a large dihedral past a bolt with a chain link 10' off the ground.  Tip toe past a bunch of vegetation then move up and right over a bulge.  Cut left at the 50' mark and climb straight up to a chain anchor located under the massive roof. It is best to belay from down hill so you have a bit of dodge ball room just in case some of the rocks dont stay where they belong.  This is another long one so rappel with care.

Pat My Weenie starts up a crumbly looking dihedral that can be wet, even during dry spells.  The first bolt is located 8' up on a white colored section of rock.  Large gear can be used to protect the run out  before the second clip.  Follow the dihedral 25' before turning left and climbing straight up the blocky overhang.  The upper section consists of amazing and intimidating fetchers.  Move right around the large roof up high and on the the anchor and rappel the route.  This is a long one so use a stopper knot.

T.R. Center Seam climbs face moves to past a ledge to the first bolt 10' high.  Keep climbing up a steep face on fun pumpy holds past a bulge at the 30' mark.  Then move into a dihedral that will lead to the upper overhanging section just before the anchor.  This is a long route also so use caution when rappelling or lowering.

Zachs Crack starts up a large dihedral on gear past some dirty, vegetated bulges to gain a zig zag crack.  Follow this right trending ramp and crack systems to the bolted anchor and rappel/ lower the route.

Start in a right trending crack/corner system and head straight for the obvious roof with a bolt over the lip. The crack seeps in the early season or after rain. Pull the roof right on good jams or left on awkward face holds. Finish on left trending bolts to share the same anchor with Slim Shady. Another decent warm up.

Atilla starts by climbing past a bulge on marginal gear to reach an offwideth crack.  Higher up this right trending crack widens into a chimney.  Keep going up and right of the arete until you are even with anchor of Zacks Crack (80')then cut left to the shared anchor or keep climbing up and right to the anchor of Brooks/ Walker Project. (100')

A fun moderate for those uninterested in the scene in the cave. Climbs funky terrain through right trending cracks, flakes and fins on black rock.

This enjoyable climb has a first bolt 10' off the ground on sloping, difficult holds.  Climb up past a bulge to where the line merges with a route to the left.  Continue threw an upper overhang and on to  the arete.  Rappel or lower down from the two bolt anchor.

Start on a short slab and corner with one bolt. Continue onto a right trending finger splitter with great gear and slightly overhung crack moves. Squeeze over the bulge into bolted territory. Watch for a bit of crumble at the top.

Black colored stem corner near the ground. Look for a plaque “Stem Cell”. Gaston escape above bolt #3. Likely “unknown #2

Grey Matter climbs up a dirty, crumbly, scarey dihedral.  Angle out right to continue past vegetation and shrubs to reach the anchor of Antimatter Arete 45' up the wall.  Rappel the climb.

Climb onto an undercling crack and move to the first bolt 11' up the wall.  This start is shared with Spangler/Turecki.  Then pull a slightly over hanging  section to a steep face.  This route is a short one and the anchor can be see 35' up, hanging over a bulge.

2001 Space Odyssey begins by stemming into an overhang next to a old bee's nest.  Plug small gear into a crack on your left and pull onto steep terrain to reach the first bolt 20' up the face.  Follow the crack up and right another 20' then trend straight up a brown streak on fun face moves to gain an arete.  The second crux is passing the large bulge then finish on the upper dihedral.  Take care rappelling or lowering because this amazing route is also a long climb.

Landmine Area starts up a large dihedral past a bolt 8' high.  Follow the inside corner 45' with the hard move being at the beginning. Then turn straight up the cliff and move through an alcove.  Pull tricky moves through a wide notch in a small roof and enjoy a few face moves before reaching the anchor. Look out for loose blocks near the top of the route. Single rappel and tie a stopper knot because this is a nice long one.

This fun climb has a first bolt located 10' off the ground on good looking lighter colored rock.  Continue straight up the dark face on three more shinny SS bolt. Gain a nice rest ledge 45' up where the two routes converge before trending right past a roof and finish on the arete.  Clip the anchor and rap the route.

Stop The Bombing starts at a bolt 8' up the wall in the midst of fun face climbing.  Move directly up the dark streaks on hardware using extendable to cut down on rope drag to reach a large chimney.  Squeeze threw this right trending fetcher up to the anchor half a rope length up the wall and do a single rope rappel or lower climb.  Cams up to 3" will make this a non R rated sport climb.

This route has some of the best stone at the cliff. Pull on the black undercling flake, climb past 4 bolts or so on a slab that is probably 5.12. Get a rest do a few moves on big holds then it is game on till the last bolt. The route eases off after the last bolt. IMO this route is a real big step up from Shroom to Believe. 

Quantam Wave climbs the lighter colored rock to the first bolt located 7' up the cliff.  The first hand hold resembles a limestone stalactite.  Continue up the face trending right on cracks and sloping holds.  The cliff gets steeper the higher you get. Pull a couple bulges and one roof near the anchor.  Rappel or lower the route.

P1 80' Climb up a right trending chimney/ corner to gain  scary looking blocks.  The first bolt/chain link is 20' up the wall.  Continue up to a wave like overhang 60' off the deck for a crux section.  Pass the bulge and overhanging face to reach the anchor below the roof.   P2 35' Climb up and right through the corner of the roof on bolts then up a dihedral to the anchor.  This makes a total of about 115' so use caution and common sense on the decent.

P1. 5.9  Underachiever starts up the right trending dihedral on natural gear in a number of small cracks.  Climb past small ledges and roofs to an anchor 80' high.   P2. 5.10c  Continue out right avoiding the underclings.  Pass through the corner with small cam placements and follow 9 bolts to the anchor.  Do a double rope rappel to get down.   P2 Var. 5.10d  From the anchor of pitch one climb straight up past a couple bulges on gear to reach a bolt higher up the wall.  Cut right onto fun steaming to a the same anchor as the normal pitch two of this route.  Use a double rope rappel to descend.

Antimatter Arete starts in a slightly concave fetcher on sloping holds to reach the first bolt 8' off the deck.  Continue over a bulge and onto the arete for technical climbing on great rock.  Well spaced hardware will lead to an anchor 45' up the wall.  Rappel or lower off the top of the climb.

Animist Core climbs up a difficult to protect crack to gain a cubby 18' up the wall.  Plug gear on the left side of the bulge and fight up and over a steep section to a right trending ramp of ledges.  This will bring you to the anchor.  Rappel or lower the route.

Spangler/Turecki starts up a right trending undercling crack that will lead you to a first bolt 20' off the ground over a bad fall zone.  Small gear can be used to protect this Smith Rock type start or bring draws and confidence.  Follow the bolt line out right past blocks onto a final steep section pulling a little roof next to the anchor.

P1 5.11c  80' Porter/ Oswald climbs from the boulder to a run out first clip located 25' up the wall.  Then move right onto the aret and climb straight up to a notch on the right side of the roof.  Be careful of loose block high on the first pitch.   P2. 5.llc Follow bolts and continue up and right along a ramp. You will pass a number of small roofs on underclings to a good belay ledge.  Use a double rope rappel go get down or scramble to the summit and walk off.

A new left side classic in memory of an OG crag dog. Start on orange colored slab an work your way into a short stem box. Pull onto classic face climbing with a tricky exit move left to a good stance. Continue on interesting slab with holds becoming better as the wall steepens again. A final short head wall guards the chains. Good stone and varied climbing make you want to howl like a Wookie!

P1  Book Of Changes starts up a corner crack to a bulge with a bolt on the lip.  Pull up and move straight up the face clipping bolts and placing gear to lessen the exposure.  Pull a small roof to gain the large left trending dihedral. to the first anchor located 90' up the route.   P2  From the anchor climb out right on gear or run-out to a hard to see bolt.  From here follow the bolts through blocky terrain to the anchor below a lager roof.

Higher Calling starts up a concave fetcher with the first bolt being 7' up on white colored rock.  Steam up and right into the dihedral then pull a steep bulge 40' high. Cams can be used to protect the short run-out after the 6th bolt.  Keep moving up and slightly left on the steep crux terrain. Past a single peace of hanging tat that can be used to rappel(not advised) and climb through a notch to reach an anchor for a double rope rappel or top out.

Buddhas Delight starts up a ramp to reach the first bolt located 15' up the cliff.  Then move past a bulge to a ledge and enter smooth, technical face climbing that trends left.  After a nice rest take a steep face into a dihedral that will bring you to the anchor shared with T.R. Center Seam.  Keep an eye on rope ends when lowering or rappeling.

Like the right side walls, there are many  fun moderates to be explored, plus a few hard routes to test yourself on. This is a good place to go if there are crowds clogging up the cave areas. Like the right walls, be careful of loose rock and wear your helmet.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Left Side Walls