Up your Buttress (known as Polar Vortex in the Tim Olson book) is an interesting long climb on the left hand side of Bridge Cliff. You can either climb it as a 70M rope stretcher or break it into two pitches at the low anchor. Climbing from the bottom of the cliff to the very top makes for an epic long climb. If 5.9/ 5.10- is near your limit, it is advisable to break it into multiple pitches due to the dangers of decking on the many ledges on this climb. If climbing with a 60m rope, lower (or rappel) to the first set of anchors, pull the rope, and lower (or rappel) again.

Up Your Buttress

Edge of Eternity

Eagle's Wing

Pier Pressure

Located in the middle of Bridge Cliff is a clean crack topped by a roof with a bolt on it. The first pitch has the crux protected by a bolt and the second pitch is all bolted. Super fun and super safe. Get on it! Pitch 1: Do some easy climbing on gear to get to a crux bolt, make the crux move right around the corner. Place some more optional pro and make your way to anchors.  There are three anchors on the ledge. I went to the middle one to set up for the second pitch. Tim Olson calls this pitch 5.11. Pitch 2: Fully bolted and kicks up with some intensity. Follow the bolt line immediately above you.  In the middle of the rock face there are two bolt lines that are close together. Take the left of the two. I found moving off the first bolt to be the first crux. There are two distinct cruxes. Tim calls this 11+ and that feels somewhat accurate to me. Pitch 3: There is a third pitch but I have not been on it yet. But I have been told "...it's recognizable as it’s on a short arete with a few bolts. The old original bolts were left in so if u see some super old looking home made bolts on that, you know you are on route."

Start up some moderate slab-esque climbing. Then at the third bolt the first real move comes, make a hard strenuous move to a decent crimp. Collect yourself and get ready for the crux. This section is extremely cryptic and appears blank at first. Once the crux is negotiated continue up over the top of the pillar and clip two FAT mussy hooks.

There is an obvious bolted face/crack climb about 7ft to the right of Eagles Wing. Pitch 1) Starts on face holds traversing right into an challenging crack followed by a tame topout onto the ledge with two sets of anchors. Pitch 2) The second pitch of this climb is directly above the second higher set of anchors. In the middle of the cliff there are two bolted lines close together. The second pitch Pier Pressure is the right of the two. The left hand one is harder and is the second pitch of Edge of Eternity. This second pitch is significantly harder then the first pitch.

Walk about one minute past Red Wall to the right and you are there. The first cliff you bump into heading from Red Wall to Bat Wall. What it lacks in width, it makes up in height. Bridge Cliff has been experiencing a considerable amount of development in the last couple of years.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (4) Bridge Cliff