We belayed at the base of a gully scrambling to the beginning of a crack 30 feet up. The action starts immediately with friendly right foot, small ledge halfway. We continued up to the end of the crack instead of traversing left, unlike description in Gillett's, so we added a variation to the route name.

The Violator Varation aka Violator

Violated

Tresspassers Will Be Violated

This is from a TR ascent.

Climb a crack past the first overhang. A huge guano mound is easy bypassed to reach the second overhang which widens for 4.5 and the crux. Clip a bolt on the right undercling bulge. Walking your feet up as high as possible, shoot for a jug high on the left.

Save a yellow/red Camalot for a horizontal, then face climb (5.9) slab clipping another (1/4") bolt.

P1. Climb the east face through broken rock and ledges, pass an overhang on the right side and through a slot, and set belay at top of the spire.

P2. Downclimb to gain the wall behind the top of the spire. Traverse left following a crack until below vertical crack which leads to the top. Set good pro at bottom & middle of crack, and shoot for the top through a runout upper section. With a cleaning tool, you may be able to get more pro in this crack.

Climb a crack to the second tree with a sling, which can be used for descent.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Violator Buttress