This 10-bolt sport route climbs the dihedral and headwall just right of

Are You Experenced?

Begin just right of

Are You Experienced?

Stem and lieback (10c) the dihedral with a wide crack, then transition onto the face to the left. Stem and pull over a small overhang then climb past a downward-pointing tongue of rock (11a), finishing with jugs.

2-bolt anchor (80 feet)

Note: The upper section has some loose features, but the bolts are all in solid rock. Some basic risk mitigation is in order: Don't hang out at the base if someone is climbing the headwall, and be heads-up when belaying someone negotiating the "tongue" of rock.

Inside Out

Are You Serious?

Dead Serious

Are You Experienced

LA Woman

Crosstown Traffic

Terror in de Skies

Hesitation Blues

Just Another Crack from LA

A fantastic pitch with a great variety of face climbing and thin crack moves.

Start 30 feet down and left from

Are You Experienced?

Climb past a bolt, then move right and climb a right-leaning thin crack (10a), then up a short vertical crack. Move right at a bolt (5.9) onto a slab, then join

Are You Experienced?

at a small overhang.

Climb over the overhgang (5.10b/c) then clip a bolt at the base of a 30-foot, slightly overhanging hand and fist crack. This bolt was placed by Richard Harrison on the first ascent of

Are You Experienced?

in 1973, (subsequently replaced with a 3/8-inch bolt many years ago), as Richard presumably didn't trust his rack of hexes to get solid placements in the slightly flaring crack.

Climb up and right to another bolt, then traverse right (10+) to reach a vertical crack/seam. Follow the crack through a bulge (11a) then climb a juggy arete past a bolt up to the 2-bolt anchor. You can get a small CD (#1 metolious) in a horizontal slot just above the crux and before the last bolt.

You can lower-off with a 60 meter rope, but barely. Tie a knot in the end of your rope.

This is a variation start and direct finish to

Are You Experienced?

Start 30 feet down and left from

Are You Experienced?

Climb past a bolt, then move right and climb a right-leaning thin crack (10a), then up a short vertical crack. Move right at a bolt (5.9) onto a slab, then join

Are You Experienced?

at a small overhang.

Climb over the overhang (5.10b/c) then clip a bolt at the base of a 30-foot, slightly overhanging hand and fist crack. This bolt was placed by Richard Harrison on the first ascent of

Are You Experienced?

in 1973 (subsequently replaced with a 3/8-inch bolt many years ago), as Richard presumably didn't trust his rack of hexes to get solid placements in the slightly flaring crack.

Jam and lieback the crack (burly 5.10c), then, where the crack veers left and turns low-angle, step right and climb a slab with 3 bolts (10a), following a thin orange vertical dike, up to a 2-bolt anchor. Just above the last bolt you can place a .3 to .75-inch camming device before reaching the anchor.

This test-piece climbs the spectacular headwall between the upper section of

Are You Experienced?

and

Crosstown Traffic.

Climb

Are You Serious?

up to the bolt at the base of the 30-foot jam crack. Move up and right to clip the bolt shared with

Crosstown Traffic

, then climb straight up a thin, offset seam past 2 more bolts (tricky 11c), joining

Are You Serious?

for it's final 3 bolts. You can get a small CD (.3 - .75 inches) above the last bolt.

2-bolt anchor, 100 feet.

You can lower-off with a 60-meter rope, but barely. Tie a knot in the end of your rope.

Start with some quasi hard pulls right off the ground in the blown out seam. Tenuous laybacks and thin jams with poor feet lead to some overlaps of extremely bad rock. The bologna slicer flake out right should be off limits if your belayer wants to live.

Shortly some ok rock will appear, you'll go over a small roof and the wonderful handcrack you hoped for will soon reveal its secret... it is a flared and grainy menace. It might be the longest section of truly flared hand and fist in all of Josh, and it has teeth... navigate this and then a few long pulls will have you to a low angle section and easy climbing to the summit.

I'd really like to go only a half a star on this thing, not just because it kicked my ass so badly... but it just might have some promise. I pulled off quite a bit of loose rock and if it ever cleans up it might actually be in that one star zone. Who knows, maybe even two stars one day.

Downclimb to climbers right, back the way you came, or use the rap chains to drop back into the descent gulley of your choice.

Located on the Lost Horse Wall, center section, directly behind a large pinyon pine tree.

Start just left of Just Another Crack from LA and climb straight up the face past 11 bolts to a 2-bolt lower-off anchor (90 feet).

This is a fun, well-protected sport route with a variety of great moves. Sustained for its entire length in the 5.9/5.10- range. The hard to read crux at the 9th bolt makes for a tough on-sight. High on the fun factor- four out of five stars.

The original (trad) start is just left, moving right (5.9, 3-inch CD) at a huge, down-pointing flake.

Terror is yet another classic Todd Swain route where everything works out just fine even though you expect something dreadful every move.

Just to the right of Are You Experienced is a prominent buttress with a sharp left arete.  Terror climbs the arete after starting up a 5.8 hand crack to the left.

At the top of the arete, the rock turns pretty loose but the climbing is easy to the top of the buttress.

This is an interesting route with a little of everything. Overall it is good rock, good protection, and climbs better than it looks. Detractors are getting to it (a little scrambling) and the grainy rock up top prior to the anchors.

Stem up the chimney to a chockstone overhead.  Place a piece or two in good stone, then start moving up and out the roof.  Place more gear and pull the crux, finger-locking up onto the chockstone (bomber) and onto good feet.  Surmount the chock and head up and left to solid cracks.  Finish left (softer grainy rock, but secure moves) or right (?better?) to a ledge at perhaps 70-80' up.  A fixed belay/rap lies on the climbers' right hand side of this ledge, from which you can rap to the base.

A great name, but a poor route. The climb goes up a thin crack.

Description

Protection

Routes in Lost Horse Wall - Left Side