Begin low on smooth bubbly pockets (your right hand and right foot will share a hold.) Pull on and make a big move to a right hand pocket. Follow the good pockets left, aiming for crimps near the lip. Be creative. Finish with a bellyflop onto the sloping rooftop.

[Redacted]

The Egyptian aka Action Deluxe

Twister

Floor Pie

The Pasty Gangster

Big Ed's Flying Saucer

Big Ed’s Flying Saucer Low

Unknown V3

Low Pie aka The Lumberjack

From a left hand pinch and right hand small pocket, pull the short roof past a single good pocket. Dynamic and enjoyable, though often slimy.

Climb from the shelf Straight out roof on small pockets, throw a toe hook out the lip. Shares a topout with twister.

youtube.com/watch?v=wKTeDuz…

 

Weird but memorable moves make this a sorta-classic. Start on big pinches above the shelf and climb to a sharp, roundish pocket. Throw to the notch, stick your feet in and commit to the bat-hang finish. Untangle and mantel.

Start in the left side of the roof with both hands in a long slot. Make big moves out the roof using pockets and the left arête until you can throw for the scoop at the lip, match and top out easily. An area classic.  

  Starting from the very back of the roof on jugs and climbing into the slot is significantly harder (V9?)

From good low pockets climb straight out roof through a small pocket/undercling, a good sidepull and a decent sloper/or meathook. Double toe hooks to the lip! 

Starts basically laying down, in the lowest set of pockets that are very close together. Seems like it’s a single pocket until you get close up to it. The right hand is a mono on the back end of it.This adds at least a grade, maybe two, to the other start described on MP (mountainproject.com/route/1…). I believe this is the start that the guidebook is describing but it’s unclear to me. 

Start hands matched on an unmistakable rail like feature in the middle of the roof. Go to the lip and top out.

This is the low left start to floorpie, not the low right entrance. Start on a good undercling feature and move out to the arete before continuing to the same top out as floorpie, generally avoiding the starting slot of said problem. Feels a little dabby until you figure out your beta.

Floor Pie Roof is a completely horizontal roof with excellent climbing, including the essential Floor Pie, the super funk of Twister, and Chris Sharma's Action Deluxe / The Egyptian, with its infamous campus-gaston crux and bat-hang finish. Directly to the left is Big Ed's Flying Saucer, a short roof with some very cool features.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Floor Pie Roof / Flying Saucer