The crux: It's probably the sustained climbing esp after pulling the roof.

What's good:  (a) it's well protected, (b) it's varied- from finger cracks to roof to hand jambs to overhang to chimney- a little (or a lot) of everything for 115', (c) it's got an anchor with chains so you can top rope it with a 70m.

One Of These Days

Pictures of Me

Unknown

Switching Eras

Livin' A Dream

King Diamond

Little Miss Manners

Bush League

This route starts directly to the left of One of These Days. The route starts with mid .11 moves through the first roof and into a small corner (bolts on the left wall outside of the corner and then by the second roof (4th bolt) becomes a series of hard .11d moves with little rest to the chains. Several holds have been reinforced. While there are some big holds, mostly in the form of underclings, there are generally no real feet near them. This keeps the route very pumpy and very sustained. Plenty of bolts and not runout.

Paul Jensen: "Starts with a traverse going to the right past two bolts. The third through fifth bolts take you into a corner with technical 11+ moves. There's another 11 move above the 7th bolt. The crux comes after the 9th bolt. There are some 10+ moves near the last bolts on the route. This is a very sustained route with many fun but technical moves."

This stout little line is a direct start to Bush League. Follow a thin flaring finger crack until it joins up with Bush League right before the offwidth section. A really thin start leads to better finger locks then straight into a balancy stem between two cracks. The crux starts right off the deck with marginal pro and stays pretty sustained until you reach Bush League.

sorry for the lack of photo, I'll take one next time I go.

The very featured cliff just adjacent to little miss manners has a host of routes (with bolted anchors) that for some reason haven't been listed

I decided to climb one just to the right of the bolted mini dihedral that was awesome.

Flakey 5.9 climbing that would clean up nice with traffic. Good gear and thoughtful climbing. Could be around 5.9/10a or an old school 5.8. I'm not very good at grading things.

Climb King Diamond and then continue up the obvious overhanging arete with 6 bolts. Difficult move switching to the arete. It remains sustained (12+/.13-) until the end of the bolts. The climbing eases after the bolts and you'll need 2-3 more pieces to finish it up. I placed 2 cams in the .3 size but there looks to be other options from (.3 to #1). The grade is a suggestion. Waiting for a consensus to firm it up.

80m rope required to lower to the ground. 70m gets you back to King Diamond or Bush League anchor.

This is a varied crack/face climb emphasizing flared finger jams. There are several 5.11b cruxes and the climbing is generally sustained in nature. It may be a little head’s up on lead but safe enough for those leading at the grade.

This is a quality line, deserving some more of the traffic that its much more popular neighbor to the left understandably takes.

You will find technical climbing between seams, knobs, and the occasional finger jam. Fancy feet and iron fingers will see you through this gem. It heads straight up to the anchors shared with Bush League.

From the route comments, pertinent (and classic) verbiage: “And yeah you have to be solid .12a/b climber. It's a thin 5.11++ with fiddly small gear. It's not some down stream weenie roast clip up”

An obvious finger crack with locker finger pods leads up to a surprise undercling and then some chimney moves before heading right to the shared

Little Miss Manners

anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in One Of These Days Buttress