A cool roof problem (the right most problem on the lower roof, closest to the Desert Sky area).  Sit start on pockets and make some pulls to the sharp crimp at the lip.  Some toe hook jezzery on the large jug to the right can make the lip moves feel easier.  Exit left following the seam.  A bit sharp and pumpy, but great moves.

Therapy

Extended Mr. Happy

Sunny Side Up

Biohazard

Corned Beef Hash

Hit the High Hard One

Bubba Lobotomy

Hippy Bishop

Cheap New Age Fix

Toxic Avenger

Mr. Happy

Bubba: The Legend

Hit the High Hard One, Sit

Piss and Vinegar

The Bubba Butt Buster

He Got Game Right

Bubba Gets Committed

Pappa Chubby

A fun climb with some excellent gym climb-like moves. The original line was a direct, but a right variation has become more fun and more popular. Sit start in the middle of the boulder on pockets and climb up to the shallow, brittle looking hueco. Figure out how to get established onto the face with small holds, and stay calm for a pumpy top out.

Start on Toxic Avenger and climb right finishing on Mr. Happy. Sharp, painful, and feels hard for a V7 IMO.

Kind of a one move wonder. Sit start with a good right hand pocket and a left hand crimp. Smear with the right foot and get a left Heel hook on the left side of the rock. Make a big move up to a good jug. Arrange your feet and get your right hand up and top out. Top out holds are solid but a little mossy.

Simply the dyno of Toxic Avenger.  Pull on at the upper end of the rail and immediately bust the move up to the good holds at the lip.

Start standing on good pockets just right of the arete. Hike your feet up, using a few intermediates if you like, and launch for the positive lip.

A right to left traverse starting at Hit the High Hard One, Sit. Pull off the ground with difficulty and make hard sustained pocket moves past Mr. Happy all the way into a potentially heart breaking finish on the Toxic Avenger dyno. A full value line for those that must take it a step further than just Toxic Avenger.

Start low on pockets and a small vertical seam. Climb left to shallow pockets and make a big move up and left to a deep pocket hidden from view. Mantel and climb up the slab to top out. Footwork could prove crucial.

Neat problem, though perhaps a bit hard for the grade?

Sit start on good, sharp pockets. Get your right hand over the lip and lock off for the obvious left hand pocket. Finish with a tricky mantle/sidepull maneuver.

A short offset seam/rail on immaculate rock make this a classic.  Sit start low on the rail and crimp out to a big move to the lip.

Start low on pockets. Climb straight up using more pockets and then a big move to the good hold or to the crack.

Starting at the same pockets as for Mr. Happy. Traverse left on a few pockets and stretch to the offset rail and finish as for Toxic Avenger.

Sit start with right hand on a shallow pocket/pinch, left hand on a terrible crimp. Make a few hard moves to join the hardest V3 in the Happies.

Sit start at the center of the left wall and climb up using some tricky beta, a left gaston and some very small crimps. A Stand start is easier and more natural. Stand Start at about v5 and for at least 1 star.

Once on top of the middle lip there is a good pocket in the back which will make topping out a little easier. It looks like it would be classic if the Holds were better. Beta seems to be a right heel hook to mantel the first slopey shelf, then get the next shelf and throw a left heel up. Also there is a really good hueco out right which might make things a little more reasonable.

Wills Young and Mick Ryan's Guidebook gives it zero stars.

Worth doing if you've climbed all the good v6s and are looking for a challenge! Maybe somebody will like it!

Alcove smells a little like piss, must be related to the name.

A left to right traverse starting low on the off set rail as for Toxic Avenger. Stretch right into pockets and continue past Mr. Happy and make hard moves to get around the corner and finish as for Hit the High Hard One.

Sit start as for Hit the High Hard One with your left hand on a really bad sloping crimp and right on a shallow pocket around the corner. Make a hard move to gain pockets out left and continue into and finish as for Mr. Happy.

Start about 8 feet left of Therapy and make some awkward pulls out to a funky pocket around the blunt arete.  Top-out straight up as for Therapy.

Description

Protection

Routes in Toxic Avenger Area