Start on the right side of an elevated ledge on the left side of the face. Go straight up through bolts and placing gear to belay at the top.

The Ally

A Visit From Juan

Muscle Memory

A Womb With A View

The Eagle's Gift

The Celebrated Crystal Crank

Begin on the same ledge as The Ally, on the left side. Go up through 4 scary looking bolts (hangars looked questionable last I saw them) to easy slab to up top.

Start by climbing up some right facing flakes to the first bolt. Head up and slowly trending left passing a fixed pin, then over a lip to another bolt and run it out to the top for a belay at the top.

A Womb With A View is a classic for experienced climbers looking for an adventure.  

To access the route, enter a narrow squeeze chimney on the north end of the formation and walk/wriggle through until you reach the “womb” - a slightly larger chamber in the center of the formation.  Scramble up onto chockstones and climb the obvious weakness, stemming and using the crack to ‘exit out of the womb’ and onto a ledge in the middle of the east face (optional belay here).  Step on to the face and climb up to the high first bolt.  Nice friction and face climbing through bolts (and some scary exfoliation flakes - be gentle!) leads to the summit.  

NO ANCHOR!!!  

 ‘Au cheval’ seated belay to bring up your follower and an old school Needles Style Rappel/simul rap off both sides of the summit.

A classic at Old Rag. Fun climbing starts by laybacking up the right facing corner. Trend left up slab climbing through 3 bolts. After the third bolt, traverse up and left to the fourth bolt and up easy but runout climbing to belay at the top.

Short, difficult route. It's dirty and covered in lichen towards the top, as it probably doesn't see much traffic.

This huge, distinctive chunk of granite is home of several classic slab climbs at Old Rag. New slab climbers be warned: some of the routes protect better than others.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Eagle's Gift