This is just like the route to the left - a funky start, followed by good stone. It is worth doing.

No FA beta is available, so I've taken the liberty to give the route a name more interesting than "un-named". If anyone has FA beta, let me know.

The name is a tribute to a Gallatin Canyon (Montana) route by Bill Dockins, named after an ice cream flavor.

Pineapple Thunderpussy (aka Magic Carpet Ride)

The Bush League

Radical Sabbatical

Tears

Rafting with Rednecks (aka "Test")

Blood

Graspin' for Straw

Sweat

Uckfay Ushbay

This has a chossy start, but the rock gets much better. It is worth getting on. No FA beta is available, so I've taken the liberty to give the route a name more interesting than "un-named". If anyone has FA beta, let me know.

The Bush League climbs like two routes in one. It starts with  good holds on a vertical wall that disappear just before the fourth bolt. One or two hard moves leads to a large ledge. It is possible to camp here, so you might want to bring a chair and six pack to enjoy the scenery while you recover fully.

Set off up an overhanging face with jugs to the top.

First, a disclaimer: I'm writing this description about 15 years after the first ascent. Radical Sabbatical climbs an easy-looking but difficult short wall right of the cave. At the time, it was the first and only route in that area. It can be identified by a drilled baby angle and perhaps a quarter inch bolt at the anchor. Our drill ran out of batteries, and I led the climb with two fewer bolts than it has now, and an X-rating. Bret felt bad leaving it that way, so we hand drilled the pin and an upper bolt before leaving.

Super fun!

[EDIT:] Tears climbs an excellent panel of smooth, clean gray limestone. The line begins with a crimpy crux getting off the ground. The line moves left to a great rest below an obvious detached flake. Move up to the flake, then traverse up & right to stem up the unfortunately positioned dihedral. Though obviously contrived, its possible to follow a line of holds left of the bolt line through this section to keep the climbing more aesthetic. Either way, arrive at a juggy, horizontal break.  A few more fun moves lead to the chains.

This is a good warm-up climb. The crux comes towards the end on the steeper headwall.

Begin right over the trail, with a few easy moves to get established in a shallow dihedral.  Thin cruxy moves head up & right to the lower-angled face.  A few jugs lead to a ledge below the prominent headwall.  Follow nice pockets up and slightly left across the headwall to good jugs at the lip.

Get past the first 3 bolts, and the crux is over. Halfway up, most folks stay left and work the left-facing dihedral. However, the direct line is doable, but the difficulty increases significantly. Pushing directly up the face would mean 12-ish climbing.

Fun. There are a couple of ledges which seem to attract a bit of dust, but the route is still pretty fun.

The crux comes right off the deck, with tricky sidepull moves traversing rightwards past the first bolt.  This is probably the shortest line on the wall, climbing nice, gray stone.

You may need your Pig Latin dictionary for this one.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in North Wall