This is the “West Ridge” route listed in the blue Desert Rock II book; keep in mind, the route doesn't actually climb the west ridge per se.

From the saddle between Point 6,333 and Lone Rock, traverse along the north side of Lone Rock to the base of Lone Rock's northwest face.

Pitch 1:

Begin up the furthest right semi-wide crack and climb the crack through a small roof to a chossy, but gets better, chimney to a ledge.

5.7 ~100 feet

Pitch 2:

From the ledge make a 5.0-5.2 mantle to easy scrambling up the ridge to a bolted anchor.

~50 feet.

Pitch 3

: I think we ended up climbing the last pitch of World Without War; which from the bolted anchor, make a hard move (we thought harder than 5.8 if the holds don't break) to a single bolt. From the bolt above the belay, don't romp up directly to the false summit. Instead, traverse left on a ledge, hop-down and then traverse right along the north side of the false summit to a wide stem to the true summit. The original route, I assume, goes down from the bolted anchor to a wide crack with some minor face climbing to the true summit.

5.8, ~60-70 feet.

To descend:

Rap 1:

From the summit rappel from a jingus anchor (~40 feet) to a wide ledge near the bolted anchor at the false summit.

Rap 2:

Rappel ~30-40 feet from the bolted anchor to the top of pitch 1.

Rap 3:

Scramble out on the west ridge two a pin/bolt anchor and rappel ~90 feet to a ledge at the base of pitch 1. A single 70M rope will rappel exactly 115 feet to the base of the northwest face .

Northwest Face

South Face (aka World Without War)

As one studies the long sweeping South Side of Lone Rock, a right facing dihedral that starts almost at the toe of the face, can be noticed going all the way to the summit. Other right facing dihedrals may be present, but this one starts almost at the lowest point and a bolt may be noticed quite low down on the first pitch where it was used to get up a blankish section and into the dihedral.

Pitch #1: Climb to the bolt and trend right around a roof to a two-bolt belay. 5.9+, 40m.

Pitch #2: An ugly chimney crack in the dihedral was avoided by easy Aid to the right and then returning left to the dihedral. A 1" (hard or C1) crack in the dihedral coninues straight up and into a loose band until one soon reaches another two-bolt belay. 5.9+, A1-C1, 50m.

Pitch #3: Continue up the dihedral and some wideness and some scrambling to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, C1. 40m.

Pitch #4: Pass a bolt (a one move wonder) and easier climbing to the very top of the tower. 5.8, 15m.

This is a late entry of a route that has until now never been recorded. I think it will provide someone a great adventure, and especially if they set out to do the FFA. Have fun!

Description

Protection

Routes in Lone Rock