A fun climb with something for everyone.  Thin seams, finger locks, cracks, slab, lie backs, mantles and friction climbing all packed into a single pitch of 85'.  The lower section where the dual seams run is protected by a piton and two bolts.  Once at the ledge follow the corner (protect with trad gear) to the Anxiety Attack anchors.  (see route overlay picture).

Only You Can Prevent Forest Fires

Rocco's Demise

White Lies

Anxiety Attack

Assault and Battery

Parlor Trick

Cognitive Behavioral Therapy

Grease

Pebble in the Sky

Slip N Slide

Short Cake

Insidious Crack

The 5.6 Crack

Cream Puff

Caifura

Bearclaw

The Slide

Top Hat

Orange Aid

The Dash

Bashie Crack

The Slash

Jellyroll Arch

Mitigate

Delicate face climbing past the first 3 bolts then the climbing gets a bit easier but the bolts spread out a bit.

The crux is down low on the climb. I had to zig-zag quite a bit down low to find the holds to make it work out to be 5.10. Going directly from bolt to bolt is much harder than 5.10, but being patient and finding the holds unlocks the sequence.

There is quite a run from the 3rd bolt up to the 4th bolt that may give you an "anxiety attack", but keep your cool and trust that the climbing gets easier after bolt 3.

Short slab climb, with only one bolt. Probably doesn't get climbed as much as it should because it only having one bolt and being runout to the anchors, a groundfall is possible if falling while clipping the anchors.

With this said don't let that stop you from leading this climb. It is safe up to and clipping the first bolt. Then the crux comes while you are still below the bolt, so a fall at the crux is very safe. Some thin slabs moves get your feet just past the bolt. From there it is a jug haul to the anchors.

If you are able to do the crux clean the run to the anchors should be a walk in the park. Overall a good climb that should probably be climbed more.

If you have an actual name, FA, and rating info for this climb please let me know and I will update the info here. There is already an unknown in the area.

Three bolts up the face to the right of Two Bashie Crack. Pretty good climbing on small crimpy holds down, then a few slab moves up top. Crux seemed to be between the first and second bolt with a long reach and some slippery feet. Getting to the 3rd bolt is easier than I thought it was going to be, and the slab  up past the 3rd bolts was thin but manageable.

Then continue up easier climbing to the top and set up an anchor using some gear. You may want to place a piece or two to protect the upper part of this climb also.

Overall a pretty fun climb. It would be nice to have some chains up though.

Thin slab climbing past 3 bolts leads to easier gear protected climbing higher.

Follow the bolts traversing up and left. Fun slab climbing with bolts spaced just far enough to keep you focused.

Short but fun slab route on excellent, featured rock. However, lack of a fixed anchor detracts from the line.

This is the right trending crack that branches off at the start of Mitigate. Dirty, loose and short to bolted anchors. I enjoyed it. Rap or take the second pitch of Mitigate to the top.

Left slanting seam that thins out to slabby face to right facing, shallow corner.  Sustained friction climbing, initially with help from tips in seam, later just pure feet.  The friction is amazing.

I believe there are 3 cruxes on this climb. The first is getting off the ground up to first bolt.  The second crux is getting feet over first overhang to third bolt.  The third crux is stepping over the second overhang and getting a stance above.

Same start as BearClaw then trend left for 3 bolts. At V trend up and right. Anchor in boulders

Short Cake is an excellent face climb on beautiful solid granite.  The climb goes up just right of the Jellyroll Arch start.  Climb the Jellyroll Arch corner for 10' or so and turn the corner on the right onto the face just below the first bolt. Continue up on thin face passing 2 or 3 more bolts.  At one point you get very close to Insidious Crack, the 5.6 climb to the right. At this point move left and follow an obvious line past horizontal and vertical cracks.  Good gear protects this whole upper section.  The last gear placement in a horizontal crack puts you about 15' below the tree with an unprotected lower angle slab to finish.  If you made the bottom face moves ok, this will be no big deal.  There is maybe a 5.8 move to get onto the slab and then easier ground to the top. About 50' of class 4 scrambling gets you to the very top of this section of rock.  Now,the guide Rock Climbing Lake Tahoe by Mike Carville shows the start to be close to or on Insidious Crack to the right and step left onto the face to the first bolt (apparantly the original start) and the ending of this route going left into a wide crack to finish.  This ending just didn't seem correct as the crack was much further left and why not continue a great face climb with an obvious and straight up face ending...

This good beginner lead starts just right of Jellyroll Arch. Follow the Y-shaped crack (its left branch when it splits) to its end. Place a small cam in a horzontal crack and finish on a good belay ledge. New bolted anchors with musseys have been placed and is shared with Short Cake.   You can lower off with a 60M.

Thin crack right off the ground (crux) leads to a second crack to the right with good jams and gear. Follow the crack to its end and head up to a short right facing corner. You can either set up a top rope off of two new bolts or walk off down and right.

The protection on the starting crack is a bit tricky. I used small brass offset to protect the crux move.

Hard, super thin balance/friction start. Easier in cool conditions. Crux getting to/past first bolt while climbing through smooth gray patch/micro crack. Little bit of distance between the upper bolts but well protected. A more asthetically pleasing climb than Caifura, but much less committing if you can get to the first bolt, an thus not as statisfying of a lead as Caifura.

Old-school, very sporty, thin slab climb. Be comfortable with 10-15' runs between bolts on a 75-80 degree slab featuring thins edges, scoops and crimps. Easy to escape left to Insidious Crack pretty much at any time if uncomfortable with the somewhat committing thin slabs moves, but true line stays well right of crack at all times. Possible to TR after leading Insidious Crack and travesing right to anchor.

The first bolt is shared with Superslide. Clip it and go up and right. Delicate slab climbing past the first 4 bolts, then you get a bit of a break heading to the 5th bolt, which is a little ways up and to the right. Past two more bolts on a steeper face, but good "holds" are there. After the last bolt you can either run it out to the top, or you can get in a few pieces in the dirty corner to the left which I recommend.

Be careful on the run to the 5th bolt although it is easier climbing then below it is a bit of a run.

The climbing stays pretty thin and sustained throughout the climb.

You will also need some gear to set up an anchor up top to belay your second up.

Walk off.

The technical crux is definitely getting off the ground but the mental crux is continuing up and getting clipped to the first bolt.  Continuing up from here eases a bit but is still good, fun face climbing.  Although the runout to the top is quite far, it is not that difficult.  You could veer right to easier ground if need be.  Although Carville's guide shows the climb to go straight up to the first bolt, I think the climb starts about 5' right of the bolt and goes straight up finally gaining good holds even with bolt and then a reasonable traverse left to get clipped.  Going straight up to the bolt from the ground looks much harder than 5.9!

The Josh Horniak guidebook "North Tahoe: A Rock Climber's Guide" rates this a 5.5, so that's what I entered into Mountain Project. But like most routes in the area, it's way sandbagged. It's delicate slab climbing for at least 20 feet before you can place any gear, and then the gear placements are very shallow. You can easily scramble up to set up a toprope to climber's left, but you'll probably need some gear for the anchor.

This route begins as a slab, then leads to a left-trending roof that leads to another short slab section that ends on a comfortable, sandy ledge. Although it seems to be fairly unknown, and therefore seldom climbed, the rock is clean. Horniak's "North Tahoe: A Rock Climber's Guide" book gives this a grade of 5.6, but the bottom section can feel harder because of the somewhat tricky start and run out. Not recommended for new trad leaders.

The beginning slab is the crux and has very poor protection opportunities. Thin feet at the start require a bit of a side-to-side balancing move to reach a very shallow crack (more of a seam). The crack provides crimpy holds, but is flary and flaky, making it extremely hard to protect, if at all. Any protection you manage to place has a high chance of pulling out while climbing or breaking through the flaky edges if you fall. The first spot for placing a solid piece is near the ride side of the start of the roof traverse.

The traverse under the roof is comparatively mild with sufficient protection opportunities. While footholds aren't generous, small crystals provide good purchase. The rest of the route is relaxed.

The crux to Unknown is getting off the ground on very thin hands and feet and continues thin getting up to and past the second bolt.  The first good hold is about level with third bolt.  From here on up the climbing eases but is still great face climbing.

If someone has the actual name of this climb and the FA I will update the info here. There is already an unknown in this area.

More of a seam than a real crack. From the ground it looks like it may clean up and have some potenial. After spending some time cleaning and climbing it on TR I quickly realized why this climb sees no traffic.

Find the crack/seam directly below The Slash. It has two fixed bashies on the lower part of the climb. Climb this seam passing the two bashies and getting in a few small pieces if you are leading it to a ledge. Grunt your way over the awkward roof and continue up the crack to the top.

This climb is very dirty, the gear down low is poor, and the roof move is more of a grunt than a cool move.

The only reason I'm posting this is so if someone else see this climb they may pass. Although the bolted climb to the right of this crack is worth doing.

The Slash is a short, right trending crack on the second tier of routes, about 50 yards right of Insidious Crack and Jellyroll Arch.  Look for a bulging wall followed by the wide crack.  Scramble up to the base.  Rap from bolts.

This is a must-do route on the east face of Grouse Slab.  The route climbs slab underneath the obvious diagonal roof (the Arch), then turns the corner and climbs cracks for another 70 feet or so.  Start at the blocks below the terminus of the Arch.  Climb up into it and traverse left, protecting in the crack.  After turning the corner, belay at the ledge system when rope drag becomes a bitch.  A couple 2-3" pieces are helpful.  Climb through the crack/roof system abover (its easy 5.5-5.6) and up to a tree belay.  Descend to the south.

Pitch 1:  Fingers to hands to run-out slab (for me at least) to nice belay.

Pitch 2: Crack/face climbing to nice belay

The crux for me was mental, the slab. Easy climbing but if you go, you go and onto a small nut (that's all I could get) swinging sideways on a long swing. Weird pulling out onto face but then it's easy climbing.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in East Face