This is Not a CT classic, but it’s classically CT style to squeeze in another line. You find this climb between ‘Mohawk Town’ and ‘Union Busting’  Start along ‘Union Busting’ but quickly go climbers left and work into the blank space and use what little is there for a fun challenge. Follow the path of most resistance up two thin cracks as they serve as your only holds.  

4 Stars out of 10

Union Busting

The Irishman

Mohawk Town

70meter rope or top belays. Start at the duck graffiti and scramble up to corner,  stay in corner and to the right of small cedar trees along the way, be weary of some stacked blocks towards the top. The protection is everywhere you don’t really need it (not at the crux’s) but would protect a compete pinball down the cliff. This is a very nice way to get a little exposure and a view of new haven on a rope. Named after The Vandals song Mohawk Town because of the hate speech and swastika graffiti I removed  

Pleasant climbing following the central fracture. 70m or top belay. 

Follow the arete to the top, very casual. This one is more nuanced to set up a tr, essentially rap down to another tree and make anchor past old inscribed ‘JFH 1874’ which can obviously only mean Jimmy F’n Hoffa climbed at west rock. 

Follow the spine up and around toni harp block to the left of the quarry walls. Veer left at the cliff face to find the graffiti. A small collection of moderate tr and trad climbs 70meter rope and nuanced static line setup or simple top belay (recommended). If you’re looking for really chill climbs in the sun overlooking New Haven and Long Island sound this is the spot. 

Description

Location

Routes in Upper Quarry Wall