The crux of the route is down low, but if you can pull through it, you'll cruise on fun, moderate moves to the top.

Higher Education

Jingus Road

Kehough Cling

As You Wish

Waterstreak Direct

Times Flies When You're Alive

Do the Right Thing

The Arch

Arch Direct - Waterstreak

Blacktail Boulder Traverse

Inconceivable

Leftovers

Waterstreak

Once the mandatory 5.12a on sight for the 80’s sportslabmaster, is slashed to a/b here! Crux is bolts 2 - 3 micro crimping and frogging with a little jingus Gaston/side pull to a mini gold corner then easier stone above with a minor stinger 5.11.

Hard thin climbing in the low panel and hard through the break and above, with only a little break in the nasty crimp action.

Harder than Jingus Road and more Jingus.

Fun, easier climbing leads to a tricky, powerful roof move. Has its own anchors, but can also be TR'd from Inconceivable's anchors (maybe clip a directional bolt?).

Climb up the Waterstreak to the glued flake. (the glue is currently loose and could use some attention) From this point, bust straight up through a slightly airy section to two more bolts and a very thin, crimpy crux to the anchor.  The anchor could use lowering hardware.

Apparently this thing broke at some point in the past.  You can kind of see a scar near the crux where a hold may have been.  Anyway, my understanding is that it was originally graded 13a pre-break.  That felt about right when I did it recently. (post-break)

I didn't like this route, but some do.  Easy scrambling up a ramp on slick rock leads to the first bolt.  Super polished holds lead to a very reachy crux and the chains.

The best 5.11 on the lower wall. Great moves and fairly sustained. After a couple of attempts, I learned that you just have to "do the right thing" for it to be .11c and get the redpoint.

Fun movement that flows really well. People seem to find different cruxes, but one thing all agree on is the pump that will hit you in the last 15 feet! A great combo of technique and endurance.

Center route, best at Blacktail. Arch Direct crimps, clamps and underclings, with foot swapping, up and

right along the micro arch feature in the center of Blacktail. Join the Arch for the cool lieback section, then to forearm rest on Waterstreak and its crux. Center route, best at Blacktail!

This tricky traverse boasts perhaps the shortest approach in Jackson. A huge array of big, polished holds promote a number of sequences at the many cruxes. Everybody seems to have their own way to go. A fun way to get a deep pump. Character is way different than the less-steep edges of Lower Blacktail.

A fun route on good holds.  It trends left at the beginning, goes straight over the bulge (a little reachy) and then finishes on positive holds to the chains (left again).

An extension continues up and right at 11a and is quite enjoyable.  Makes for a longish climb for Blacktail.

The leftmost line at Lower Blacktail.  This climb leans to the left the entire way, which guarantees a good pump!

Crux comes at midheight with an awkward move off a sloping ledge to a good hold out right.

Great climbing on vertical limestone slab. Numerous cruxes and potential for decent airtime! Can't give away too much... :). The direct variation (.13a?) follows the bolts to the left of the main route.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lower Blacktail Butte