bust a hard boulder move, then climb the thin black face

Scheelite Fight

Neighborhood Watch

Pocketful of Funk

Deity

Twitch  (easy start)

Mile High Club

Never Believe

Free Beaks

Effigy

Belly of the Beast

Inside Out Extension

Burning Inside

Stigmata

Burning Man

Never Believe (extended)

New World Order

Climbs the right arete of Rites of Spring, then follows the old aid seams out on the face a little to the right.  Ends at the same height as P2 of Rites of Spring.  Approach via Twitch/Free Beaks.  From the Free Beaks anchor jog left onto Rites of Spring for a few feet (no gear needed) to reach the first bolt on P2.

The logistics of doing this are a little tricky, particularly finding a comfortable belay for the Belly of the Beast (P2.)  Best option is doing Twitch and belaying at the base of Free Beaks, or belaying off the Free Beaks anchor (semi-hanging, not comfortable.)

The stated length of 100' is for the second pitch alone.  It's closer to 65m from the ground with the pitches combined.

Two rope rapp from the top anchor/belay to the ground, or 2 35m rapps.

Start up some funky crimps and get established on a little rail. Start up and left doing some techy and powerful moves on some good and some bad crimps. Throw some rad thumb presses and underclings into the mix and then you have arrived at the anchors.

The route was originally 5.12 but after some holds broke, Peter Croft shifted some of the bolts to realign them with a climbable line and the guidebook calls it 13a.

A revival and extension to Dale Bards route coined "Old Funk" in Marty's book.

Layback and jam a flare to some small holds.  Shares an anchor with New World Order.

Follow 4 new bolts up seam seam just left of original Twitch and finish on last two bolts Twitch. Sustained.

It's easy to set up a top rope on this route from Barnes' mixed 5.9 sport route to the left.

This 70m mega-route is an extension past the 'Neighborhood Watch' anchor, following a right-leaning crack and patina face to the alcove anchor stance.

You better Believe it!   As the easiest route on this face, it makes for a good warm up.  The climbing is fairly steep, but with good balance and technique isn't too pumpy.  Occasional in-cuts, a few jams, and descent feet keep it fun.

Climb Twitch or Easy Twitch start to the anchor ledge at about 70'. Clip anchor draw and continue into the dihedral corner that is the start of the old aid route "Beaks of Paradise". Place small cams to a crux about halfway with 2 bolts. These bolts were placed next to the 2 bashies that were removed to make this a free climb. Do a desperate dihedral crux to a stance and place small cams through easier ground to a bolted anchor above an old stump.

Climb the awkward groove for a few bolts before busting out right and working through some cruxy, balancy moves on sidepulls. Head back left for an easier finish with good rests before the chains.

Not quite as sustained or enjoyable as some of the other routes at Ministry, but the crux sequence is engaging and the route is well-protected.

Climb Burning Inside, then move left up face, passing a rounded platform.

A fantastic technical face climb. Amazing movement on perfect rock.

Must do!!!

Fun route with delicate and technical face climbing on a variety of holds.

The crux comes after the second bolt, which is good because the first bolt is in a weird place and you end up clipping it at your knee.

The guide gives this route 2 out of 5 stars, but if this route was located else where it would be a classic.

Worth doing!

This is an extension to any of Twitch/Scheelite Fight/Effigy that doubles the length of those pitches with an equal amount of new independent climbing.

Climb the face immediately above the Effigy anchor, ending at the same height as Free Beaks. Patina climbing on slick black rock for it's first half, followed by less featured but more textured face.

With a couple of runners (+gear) it's also possible to finish by linking into Free Beaks at it's last bolt.

Multiple mix/match combinations to be had by combining pitches, or parts of, Twitch/Free Beaks/Scheelite Fight/Effigy/Burning Man.

A 70m is required to lower from the mussies.

extended to 35m and 50m. Crux above bolt 12. Lesser cruxes above 9,  18 & 20.  If you're going all the way to 50m, belayer should tie in and  lower you to 35m anchor.  Your second can then do the whole 50m route and lower to ground. You rap off. Original anchors at 80 ft. upgraded to hooks.

Very sustained technical face climb that will keep you on your toes the entire way.

This climb is rated 11d in the guide book but felt significantly harder than some other similar graded routes in the area. (IMHO)

With that said, this is a great climb.

Description

Protection

Routes in Ministry Wall