Ted was bored, so climbed a new route to the right of Prather Girl Paradise, shares an anchor with that route.

The man who has climbed everything

Divorce Quartz

C'mon Now

Meditation Love

Vertical Smile

Time is a Story Teller

Kelsey's Klimb

Don't Go Changin'

Skid Mark

Thugs

Bunghole Climbers

Warm Black Knobs

Yoga With Charles

Into Thin Hair

Racing Stripes (Yipes Stripes)

Giving Spencer Tracy

Prather Girl Paradise

"This climb begins on thin stuff (.10a move) protected by two bolts and proceeds through a quality .8 section." After the 5th bolt the route splits. Right is better. Both left and right options have a single bolt and holes for tricams.

Good route overall. Route Finding is a bit difficult. Following the Cliff Notes, the first belay is tough to find, and the route to the second belay is not obvious. The path we took felt like Yosemite 5.10a on one section.

Pitch 1 (5.10a, bolts + pro): Easy face and slab climbing up to a high first bolt. Floow a left trending seam through a few bolts. The seam opens up to accept pro and leads to a bolted anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.8, all bolts): Moderate slab climbing straight up the face through a series of bolts. Pitch ends at a bolted bleay.

Pitch 3 (5.10b, bolts + pro): Pull the roof or climb around it to the left, up to a right trending flake system. This leads to a short slab head wall through two bolts, with the crux between the bolts. Continue up moderate face and slab climbing over featured rock up to your choice of natural anchor position (lots of options).

Pitch 4 (5.6, all pro): Climb up to the roof system near the top of the dome and find the weakness to the summit.

Fun slab climb with some holes for tri-cams.

"Several unusual short vertical cracks/grooves (vertical smiles) and a line of eight bolts leading up to a roof at the top. A highly recommended climb requiring good technique and some unusual moves."

This route looks great, but is highly vegetated and needs maintenance. Didn't have the right tools for the job, but will return to get my hands dirty. Large appealing left facing, left trending corner to overhang roof. Anchor bolts above looked good from the Giving Spencer Tracy belay.

We only climbed P1. The topo lists 8 bolts for 165'. There are only 6, with supplemental gear in a small crack feature above the mini-roof. Requisite 5.8 friction on run out terrain.

P1: 5.8

P2: 5.10c

Pitch 1 (5.9, 5 bolts + pro): Nice friction slab with occasional edges for hands. Belay at a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.7, 3 bolts): Fun "get there" pitch. Belay at a 2 bolt anchor on the side of the right-facing feature.

Pitch 3 (5.10b, 7 bolts + pro): Tricky moves on gear through the right facing feature.  Pull over the roof to a series of bolt protected faces and ledges.  Belay at a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 4 (5.6, 3 bolts + pro): Another "get there" pitch with good runouts on easy terrain.  Gear belay between a giant block and the head wall.

Topo says "3rd class" from here, but we stayed roped up and did a 4th/5th class traverse to climbers left to get around mungy vertical terrain

Detailed topo, route beta, and area info will be in the upcoming guide to the Courtright area by

Dwight Kroll

.

Climb the long black streak past multiple cruxes. Skid Mark is a long route and required two ropes to descend.

Climb the right facing and slightly overhung corner. Work up the corner until it is possible to move right and clip the final bolt on "Vertical Smile," then pull through the roof to the anchor.

"Hardest moves at the base. Bring tricams to protect intermediate bunghole territory"

Two hardest moves at base, easy protection with tricams.

Pitch 1 (10a): This is a wonderful warm-up slab pitch for what's to come. Supplement the bolts with gear, and climb through a short slab crux to a roof with a reachy clip and a reachier mantle up onto two... warm black knobs.

Pitch 2 (7/8): A quick "getting there" pitch with easier friction & edges to a bolted anchor.

Pitch 3 (10c): The leader will have to earn every bolt on this pitch, which is steep, thin, and continuous up to another reachy roof move. The roof is followed by two more bolts of easier friction to a bolted anchor.

Pitch 4 (mungey 5th): The topo says "3rd class off" after the 3rd pitch, but unless we missed it, I'd recommend using a rope through the final ledges to the top.

Detailed topo, route beta, and area info are in the guide to the Courtright area by

Dwight Kroll

.

Fun slab climb with 4 bolts and some holes for tri-cams. Bolted belay station at top. Double rope rappel.

P1: climb 4th class up the grey rock bordering the orange rock (can rope up and place gear), belay on large ledge.

P2: start up a large hollow flake, then slab above, clipping bolts, passing the crux, then ledges until at a 2 bolt belay immediately right of a right-facing corner.

P3: climb up corner until it starts trending right (careful of a loose death flake here), look for a series of bolts above (next to some knobs), escape out of and over the corner/roof, heading up the bolt line, past various ledges, arriving at bolted anchor.

P4: short pitch of low 5th to top (gear belay).

perhaps one move of 5.9, rest is easier. poor rock quality, loose flakes, hollow flakes that you wouldn't want to whip on.

Thin left facing flake on the right side of the black streak with two bolts near the ground. Bolted rappel.

This description is for the first pitch only. This route can be completed to the top of Power Dome in 2 or 3 pitches although the second pitch is dangerously runout.

"Classic first pitch and birthplace of the "Spencer Tracy" belay technique" For more information on this belay technique buy the Kroll guidebook for Courtright Reservoir. It is spectacular and loaded with interesting information.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in East Face