Burly start, make powerful moves through underclings, being careful clipping the second bolt.  Make some more big moves and try to catch a rest, before the heady thin traverse left into Moat Jump.  Run up Moat Jump to the anchors being careful not to blow the redpoint at the final roof.

Moat Pump

Dragon's Lair

Gangland

Dump Trump

Brave Little Toaster

Meltdown

Siege Warfare

Loose Cannon

Rogue Warrior

Moat Jump

Phrenology

Evil Alchemist

Death Drives a Stick

The Catapult

Against Nature (aka Peter's Route)

The Dungeon Wedgie

Couch Warrior

Evil Elliot (aka Battering Ram)

Castle Greyskull

First bolt variation starting in the ghost white lichen joining Moat Pump at bolt two. Neat boulder problem that is slightly more pleasant than the Moat Pump start.

Extension of Siege Warfare through the roof to the short face above.  A good rest above seige's anchors and some heel-toe trickery make the boulder problem that turns the lip not too bad. Not that much harder than Seige Warfare.

Start up steep rock with jugs, pulling a few big moves off of underclings.  Once on the face the holds shrink with the angle, and a few sequency moves appear.  Snag a mediocre rest, and pull the crux thin face moves, to easier ground up to the anchors. 

  There seem to be many extensions to this route,  Apparently if you get to the upper anchors on Loose Cannon it is 12c, and if you make it to the very top it is considered 12d.  Although from the obvious anchors for Gangland, this didn't seem real obvious, looks like you would break right before clipping the Gangland anchors to get to the anchors on Loose Cannon. 

  Sometimes called Excalibur, but apparently Gangland was the original name.

Start on junky and sharp rock and climb up a slight overhang to a small lip. Pull the lip (first crux), clip the third bolt, and catch a decent rest. Crank through some thin balancy moves off of slopers and crimps between bolts four and six (second crux). Easier but still interesting climbing guards the anchors. 

  The rock on this one is questionable, but will probably improve with traffic.

Starts on easy jugs, and gets progressively harder as you get higher.  Pull a few moves off some small crimps and setup for the final desperate crux at the anchors.

Starts at the left side of the main wall (see               

Routes on the Main Wall at The Dungeon.      ), climbing up through the overhang to the bulge. Pull the V5ish crux on heinous crimps and poor feet over the bulge. Above the bulge, tricky, thin face climbing past two more bolts to the anchors. Difficult fourth clip--you may want to hang a draw on this bolt from Against Nature. 

Maybe the best line on the wall, marred only by the fact that the crux is particularly desperate.  Starts right of Gangland and works up and right to a few crimpy and technical moves right to deposit you underneath the crux.  At least 2 solutions to the crux exist.  One very powerful, one very crimpy and still powerful.  Climb to the top of the wall from here, work out right using the seam in the upper roof to clip anchors just above the "triangle".

A powerful start from underclings yields a steep unrelenting face.  After the third bolt, pull a small roof, probably the red point crux.  After this the difficulties end, and unfortunately so does the good rock.  Head up on increasing chossy rock, mantle onto a wet moldy ledge and traverse left to anchors shared with Moat Jump. 

  Might be best to use the anchors for Couch Warrior and skip the final two bolts of climbing.

Very good route! A difficult start through steep terrain leads to a foot-intensive "slabby" middle section. Around the sixth bolt look for a no-hands rest before the final tricky roof. Bust through the tricky final roof making another couple of moves to the chain anchors. 

  (On 8/7/2013, the chalky plate below the final roof was apparently removed by someone, not me, making the last clip a little bit different -- JH ) 

  Warning: Not a good warm up... Ha, but the only one we could find when the rain was coming down.

You probably didn't come to the Dungeon to climb slabs but this chossy dirty climb might be worth doing once. 

  Start up the slab left of Meltdown, being careful not to pull anything off or peel off from the lichen on the easy bottom section.  At the 4th bolt there is a nice ledge to rest on, to get ready for the crux.    

  Pull the crux moves, being aware of the ankle breaking fall potential back onto the ledge, and head up more sustained ground to the 6th bolt.  Here grab the crack and make the funnest easiest moves to the anchor.

Climb the steep underbelly of the low roof left of Siege Warfare's start up to a good kneebar and some thuggy moves out right onto the face.  The difficulty eases up there and a few technical moves take you to the anchor.  This is the farthest left route on the main wall's front face. There is a terrible 11-something to the left of this route around the corner, but you don't want to climb it...

The extension of Against Nature through the horizonal roof.  Surprisingly, the wobbly "diving board" hold that rattles a full 5" if you push on it is solid...to pull on...I swear.  Your belayer is best out of the way when you're making use of this hold.  Nonetheless, above this business lies some additional hardness, apparently harder now that a few holds have broken.  Rumored to be solid 5.13.

Start on the direct start to Loose Cannon (between Loose Cannon and Moat Jump) and go through the crux. After the crux, go straight up into the undercling crack left of the regular Loose Cannon finish and clip a bolt left of the crack before you reach the jammed block at the top. Don't go to the jammed block; instead, follow the horizontal crack left and up past two more bolts and finish at an anchor at the end of the crack/beginning of slab. This adds about 30 feet of climbing to Loose Cannon and has a pumpy finish.

Beautiful route just right of Siege Warfare. Climb steep overhung rock at the bottom section and pull the bulge. From there continue up slabby technical rock to the anchors underneath the large overhang. The crux varies, some people feel it is pulling the bulge while others feel like it is going through a technical crimpy section near the top 2/3rds of the climb.

An uncomfortable tightening of the underpants between the buttocks, typically produced when someone pulls the underpants up from the back as a prank. Start on Dump Trump, or Moat Pump, join Moat Jump and cross onto the link bolt above Loose Cannon. Then proceed to the anchor via the original Loose Cannon finish to the wedge block. Big pump! The Dungeon Wedgie Lite version, done sometime in the late 90s, starts on Moat Jump, and is a little easier, maybe 12c.

Lichen, a scary move just before a hard 3rd clip, and ambiguous "crack on/off" rules, may explain the lack of traffic on what is one of the easier Main Wall routes. 

  Climb up to the 2nd bolt below the roof, maybe or maybe not using the wide cobwebbed crack to its right.  Undercling to reach out, & turn the roof, which is a fun, neat sequence, but has potential to take big whippers onto the bolt under the roof and maybe hit your belayer, even though you're so close to being able to clip the 3rd bolt.  This is followed by a good rest stance.  Continue up a lichen-covered vertical face, maybe or maybe not using the crack to its right. 

  Originally rated 5.12b.  Regardless of whether you use the crack to the right or avoid it, you still have to climb the crux. 

Begin on the left side of the main wall and ascend the overhanging edge/arete using a combination of face holds and crack climbing techniques. Continue up to a slightly positive face beneath a large roof; traverse to the right to the roof's edge. Although this traverse is not particularly difficult, falling at this point could result in a nasty pendulum to the adjacent wall; exercise caution. At the lip of the roof, clip the last bolt on Evil Alchemist and continue up the face to the chains below the main roof.

Traverse the entire main wall in either direction. It's a little easier (IMO) from left to right, and that's the way I did the FA. You can go as high as you feel comfortable - it's not an eliminate. 

  This problem changed a LOT after the fire, when the whole base was raised several feet and the course of the stream changed - when I did the FA, falling off resulted in a thorough drenching in the stream for most of the traverse. 

  Crux (the actual V4) is in the general area of the start of "Moat Pump". There are enough jugs throughout that the pump factor isn't *too* bad here, but it all depends on how high you're willing to go. It's entirely possible that there's a V2 way to do this traverse hidden somewhere among all those slippery holds, but I never found it. 

  The best traverse in the entire area. I can't believe people waste their time on the Playground traverse instead of this. 

The large overwhelming, overhung cliff on the left side of the canyon. This cliff steals the show with great, though difficult routes.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Wall