Locate the 7-inch diameter hole 5' off the ground, about 8' right of the left end of the wall. Note a smaller finger hole a bit higher up to the right a few more feet. Climb up the wall between these two holes on thin yet fairly sharp finger ledges (foot holds are almost imaginary). Once halfway up the holds (both foot and hand) get more reasonable. Crux is short, almost (but not quite) reminiscent of Mike's Finger Buckets at Rocks State Park.

Conspiracy Theorist

Morgan Run It

Club Ninja

Angry Potato

Gamma World

Smooth Ride

Tactical Grace

Gamma Flake

This route is at the far left side of the main wall. Climb up between the left-facing corner/arete and the 7-inch diameter hole ~5' off the ground. You can use the hole for a handhold, but using the arete makes the route a lot easier. A couple of high step and thin finger moves gets you to increasingly larger ledges until 25-30' or so up it becomes 2nd/3rd class terrain. The rock is 34' to the very top here, but the climb was only measured to where it seemed reasonable the route would end.

This may be harder if you are on the height-challenged side of life. The route starts about 7' right of Conspiracy Theorist, at a step at the base of the rock. Run right up the face on inobvious finger flakes to the top.

Start immediately right of a vertical crack at the base of the wall. Delicately climb straight up on thin holds through the apex of the arcing overlap in this section of the rock. Stay to the left of the right-leaning crack above the overlap. Thin, balancy moves below and above the overlap. You can power your way through them if your fingers are strong enough.

Bit of a contrived route, climb the more blank face between Morgan Run It and Gamma Flake, sharing a couple of holds on the left with Morgan Run It. When you reach the easier ground above, finish on Morgan Run It.

Starting a few feet right of Club Ninja, climb up to the small detached flake below the overlap. You might or might not share a couple holds on the left with Club Ninja here. Pull through the overlap onto a small but welcome ledge, then easily finish the last few more or less moderate moves to the top.

Begin ~5' right of Gamma Flake. Climb up the thin face to an overlap halfway up. Continue past the overlap to reach a slightly detached flake then scamper up the last few feet to the bushes above. It will keep your attention most every step of the way.

Begin ~7' right of Morgan Run It, below a tall left-facing crescent flake. Climb up to - and through - the left-facing flake to the top. To extend the climb, continue up left and finish on Morgan Run It. You can do a harder(?) variant by staying to the right of the flake and working up right on some small holds (almost nothing for the feet, though). Just if you want a different challenge.

Morgan Run Natural Environment Area is a small little place off of Klee Mill Road. The rock is not tall - 30' or so high - but it offers a quick area to get to (maybe 100' from the parking area) plus a small collection of random boulder problems tossed around the little river valley here. The main slab hosts only almost a dozen top-rope problems. 

  Most of the routes on the main wall were named once, but the gentleman who named them had vanished from the area prior to my being able to track him down, and the person who knew who he was also disappeared, so the names given are contemporary names, subject to being changed to historical names should I ever learn what they are. 

  - from the guide

Description

Protection

Routes in The Main Wall