AKA: Dan's Move (In LCC guidebook)

This might be one of my favorite problems on this boulder (after you warm up on the V0 to the left). If you're facing the V0, this problem starts to the right (West). Start low with left hand on the undercling and right hand on the arete, high left foot and low right foot. Make your way up by bumping your right hand up the arete and putting your left hand where you can until you hit the sloper second from the top. Right heel hook might be necessary. The last move is slopey but the top out is solid.

Dan's Problem

No Warm Up

Easy Arete

Insecurity Checkpoint

Warm Up Dyno

Chip Butty

Stepson

The Lair

Downclimb arete

All Thumbs

Hideout

Where Have the Holds Gone

Burly stand start

Direct North Face of Shothole

Burly

Go Right

Fun eliminate problem that keeps right of Direct North Face of Shothole. Start on a pair of big jugs. Left hand goes straight up to a small sidepull and right hand to a crimp not as high*, then a big throw to a smallish good edge about a foot below the lip, then top out.

*This is the way I climbed it, but the BB says go right to the crimp first, then left to the sidepull.  That might be a harder sequence.

Easy Arete is on the west side of the "All Thumbs Boulder".  To reach this boulder, take the Secret Garden trail from the road, first passing The Copperhead Boulder on the right, then continuing slightly past.  All Thumbs is recognizable by the overhanging jug haul "Direct North Face of Shothole" V0.

Start on the west arete, with a very small boulder just to the left.  Pull through a smallish bulge to easy climbing above.  Downclimb the opposite side of the boulder next to a tree.

A fun traverse starting on the rightmost pockets on the All Thumbs boulder. Traverse left and finish up the left arete. Trickier than it seems.

Same start as "Direct North Face of Shothole." Dyno from start holds to the upper jug. Top out is the same.

Nice slab/vertical challenge with great rock, bad feet and some challenging crimp moves.  Eases up at top.

Start on a chest high, left facing sidepull.  Arrange your feet and do the hardest move to an obvious sidepull up and left.  Walk your feet up on more bad feet, reach for an incut edge, and then follow better holds on lower angle rock to top.

Landing is very flat.

To get to Stepson, follow the trail into Secret Garden.  First, pass the Copperhead Boulder on the right, then keep going straight to the All Thumbs boulder.  Stepson is on a small slabby boulder just west of the All Thumbs boulder.

Start on top of a small boulder, with a hole to watch out for on the right.  Climb up the slab through small shallow pockets.  Easy descent off to the right.

From the BB - Start down under the boulder with right hand on a juggy side pull and left hand on a little shelf, then make your way out and up to the top of the boulder. Very low to the ground, watch out for dabs!

Follows the easy left arete on the shothole face.  V0 in the black bible.

All Thumbs is about as good as a lowball can be.  This fun little lip traverse begins sitting/laying down with the feet to the left and hands on an edge.  Work the slopey lip rightward to a crimp over the lip, then continue to the right arete and mantel.  This climb is very conditions dependent.  It will feel impossible in the summer and almost doable in cold temperatures.

The original problem did not traverse all of the way to the arete, it manteled directly.  I feel that this version is ever so slightly more difficult and more enjoyable.  I also think this way is a higher quality problem.  Some people still do it this way, and I believe refer to it as All Thumbs Direct, though this method was the original version.  All Thumbs must be one of the most climbed V10's in Little Cottonwood.  You will never be more than 4 feet off the deck, making working the problem easy and accessible.  It may seem trivial at first glance, but the movement and holds are thoroughly engaging.

Vague description in the BB, but the start that seemed right was left hand on the obvious chalked up knob and right on a small crimp edge at the bottom of the arete.

A few committing slaps to the juggy lip and top out.

Where Have the Holds Gone is another route on the All Thumbs boulder.  It is just left of the juggy line, Direct North Face of Shothole.  Start by using two deep manufactured pockets, then go straight up through slopers to an easy topout.

Stand and grab the good holds on the arete at head height, skipping the overhang.  Make your way up and over the bulge.  V3 in the black bible, this is described as the original Burly with the low/sit start as a variation.

This climbs the center of the north face of the All Thumbs Boulder(opposite from the road).  Walk along the Secret Garden trail - this will be the second large boulder and the first on the left side of the trail.

Start in the center of the face on a huge jug.  Move from giant jug to giant jug through the overhang to the top.  Kinda high, but a good landing.  V0 doesn't get any more fun than this.

Start on a flat, left facing crimp under roof and a right hand sloper around the arete.  Hard moves up and left towards the arete to an easy topout.

Good cold weather problem.  Stand start is V3.

Go Right is another boulder problem on the All Thumbs Boulder.  It is on the face first seen as appoaching from the highway, just left of the downclimb route by a tree.  Start on the slabby face, grabbing two sidepulls just above waist height.  Friction up and right to the topout.

Description

Routes in All Thumbs Boulder