Climb small seams and cracks on the face of a large flake in the likeness of #7 that leans against the base of White Dream Wall. Pull the small overhang on the right at the spine of the 7 or traverse the roof left and finish on a thin crack straight up. Belay on top of the flake with gear, walk off left to descend.

Lucky Sevens

White Dream Slab Right

Get Up Stand Up

White Book

Life on a Line

Butterfly Corner

Cryin' on the Corner

White Dream Slab

Rock Dodger Dihedral

Climb a long left-facing dihedral with a wide section in the middle. The wall is solid but there's loose stuff laying all over the corner. Belay with gear. To descend, walk off climber's left past the Back Forty Wall.

Kind of a Choose Your Own Adventure route with a difficulty of 5.4 if you wind your way through the path of least resistance. 

  Start at the lowest tongue of white rock on the wall. Walk up low-angle water polished slab to a ledge with a cleft at 40' and rope up here. Near the left end of the cleft, angling up and left, climb out the right side below a long bulge using the cracks at the under the bulge. Step right at the end of the bulge heading up and right past flakes and seams on easier ground to the corner forming the right edge of the cliff. Climb the wide crack left under the small roof and pull around the corner, follow the easy broken corner up a few feet to a largish belay stance before the corner steepens. Climb the corner for a few feet then cut left onto a flake/crack system and follow it to the top. Belay with gear. Walk right a short ways and down the steep but easy hillside south of White Dream Slab.

This is located South of the Keyhole area proper past the bouldering area, on the left margin of the white water-polshed granite slabs, in brown stone on the left edge of the easy to see big alcove and steep headwall. Mixed gear and bolts route.   

  Begin where the bushes end on the left margin of a gray and brown water polished slab, pull an easy boulder move and get out on a thin crack which you follow over a lap (maybe the 1st crux), then move left into the corner and through some blocks up to the top of the overhang feature, clip the bolt, move right and a funky #1 or #2 camalot protects the exposed mantle to the chain anchors.   

  Pitch 2 climbs the two crack systems and moves out right past several bolts to chain anchors...5.7   

  Pitch three paddles up the exfoliated slab past several bolts to chain anchors.  Long slings on pitch 3 cut down on rope drag.  You can rap the route with a single 70 m. rope if you are careful at the pitch two station ...rope stretcher there so have your anchor sling ready as you come off the end of the rap. This route was initially led ground up.

Climb the dihedral/corner system that is the boundary between the white and brown sections of the wall. Belay just after the chimney through the headwall. Descend climber's right around the end of the wall and scramble back to the base.

P1. Climb the left dihedral in the large square-toped recess at the bottom of White Dream Slab. Pull the roof out the left corner and belay on the ledge.   P2. Step left on the ledge to the first big crack. Follow the crack until it ends and cast off onto the dark face and continue up. Pro is scarce but there is a good eyebrow that offers protection. Belay on the next nice ledge.   P3. Climb the crack/groove to the top.   Descent: Follow the top of the cliff to climber's right past the top of White Dream Slab and scramble down the side.

Climb face and cracks just right of the outside corner formed by a shallow left-facing dihedral.

Cryin' on the Corner starts just right of the right hand side of the big alcove which has Get Up Stand Up. Left of the easy approach slabs to White Dream.  Every pitch of this climb was led ground up. Begin on a white water polished slab.  There is a trimmed back cats claw bush at the belay spot and you can't miss the line of bolts.  Paddle up slick but not steep friction pitch on the rounded arete to chains at 120 ft - 12 bolts so well protected...Second pitch ascends the easy crack until you can pop out left onto the face.  Clip a bolt and use some gear on the face to reach the chain anchor at 140 feet on a medium sized ledge.  The climbing is about 5.6, but this pitch you would not want to fall off anywhere on lead.   

  Pitch three ascends the up and left on a ramp (bolted), pulls the overhang on gear and you stem up a shallow groove to a ledge past a few...not many bolts. There are 2 bolts at the top of the groove where you can set an intermediate belay if you encounter rope drag on pitch 2.  From there, you step left and make some thin moves off the ledge to stand on a crimpy edge and clip the last bolt.  You'll run into some exfoliation at the top of the third pitch so climb weight distributed.  Run it to safer ground. Easy to set gear anchor at the summit.  Descent is scramble climbers right around a bulge in the middle of the white slab and solo or short rope your way to the chains located under the bulge.  A 70 m may get you down without incident.  We always had two 60m ropes.  Alternately you can rap off Get Up Stand Up with a single 70 m.  

  There is one project right of White Dream and a second much older route right of that which is protect-able with gear and has a single rusty Leeper bolt.    Please respect the first ascensionist's work in progress, but enjoy the first 2 pitches.  On pitch 2 there is a slick 5.10 section which is tasty if hard friction suits your palate.  All pitches on this project were led ground up.

Start from the lowest point of the cliff at the bottom of the wide white streak and climb easy low angle slabs till they end. 

  P1) Gain the steeper slabs above this staying about a third of the way across the face from the dihedral that marks the left side of the white rock and continue towards the head wall. Easy 5.10 climbing on slick polished granite with protection every 15-20' in horizontal cracks and one-off seams give this pitch a spicy flavor. Find a belay spot below the head wall and the shallow groove/water streak. 

  P2) Below the water streak, the head wall dips to its lowest point. The only two bolts on the route are found here: one below this dip and the second just onto the head wall. Follow the water streak on the near vertical rock for thirty pro-less feet over the low angle slabs bellow. This is the crux, 5.10, and a fall here would be bad. Plug some gear and belay or continue up more low angle run out slabs take you to near the top. Surmount the last slightly overhanging 10' to reach the top. 

  Descend to the right by hiking and scrambling  around the south side of the cliff.

White Dream is named after is one of the boldest leads at Keyhole. It's the salivatingly tall, west-facing white and brown slab a mile south of Keyhole that catches the climber's eye from up and down Hwy 95. At a little over 300' tall and just as wide, this is the largest unbroken cliff at Keyhole. The left side gets shorter as the hillside rises and much of it is undercut by the Gracy Slick Roof.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in White Dream