Up the gully (or alongside it) to the left-hand crack, then up the crack to the top.   Variation: About half-way up the lower gully, move left onto the arete and up that to a puzzling move (5.6), then finish on the left-hand crack. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Mambo

High Nowhere

High Rustler

Chute

Devil's Elbow

Jitterbug

Gunsight

Ballroom

Moves on interesting holds. If only this were longer.

 From the main Baldy base platform, reach the start by climbing through the Ballroom and Mambo routes. . (On top-rope, could first do one of those routes as a warmup, then lower halfway down the Mambo lower gully, then climb up the mini-arete on its left side to the plaform below vertical face).

 Up the face, finish to right of naked tree trunk.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

 . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Thoughtful face moves -- one especially tricky -- but the rest are sufficiently interesting. 

  Up the slab (without using the positive left-facing hold about 15 inches right from the crack in the right-facing corner). Up the steeper face to the top. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Up slab to right side of roof, follow vague crack in concavity/scoop as it curves left, then straight to the top.   . (If don't get the non-obvious feet just right, much harder). 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Up the face, then right-ward to its right edge, and up that to top out on the main mid-platform. 

  . (could then continue upward on the Chute route). 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Interesting moves ... too bad it's not longer. 

  Start on a short slab, then steeper up the crack system. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

A real arete, with a vertical crack in much of it (but not all). 

  Up the right side of the arete to the three-foot-wide block perched at its top.   . (Easier to start higher, on the slope along the left side of the arete). 

warning: The perched block at the top might be loose, so check it carefully before climbing below it or on it. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Thoughtful interesting fun moves. If only it were longer. 

  Up the two shield flakes to the right-hand crack, then up that to the top. 

  Cha Cha variation: Start up the face and crack just right of the shield flakes. Technical thoughtful (5.7) 

  Strictly Ballroom (Top-Rope): Lower in to start below the obvious roof/overhang. Up to the roof and exit around its right side (5.8) 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

South-facing slab in upper cliff a ways east from Tower Wall, just West (left) from Albion sector, with obvious mid-platform between its lower and upper sections. 

  The routes are short, so no individual route tends to get many quality stars. But each route has interesting climbing, and with some cleverness in setting top-rope anchors, can efficiently get a lot of good easy/moderate climbing by visiting here (especially when combined with Albion sector). 

  A bit tricky to reach its base or main mid-platform as of 2015. Perhaps easiest to rappel or lower in from top anchor (perhaps after doing some Top-Rope climbing in the Albion sector). Or an experienced trad leader could belay the other climbers across from the Albion main base mid-platform. 

  The obvious main mid-platform slopes toward a dangerous cliff drop-off around it. So if have any doubts about the carefulness or focus of some participants, good idea to tether them - (One way to do that would be hang a fixed rope down from an anchor at the top). 

Top-Roping: To set up a top anchor, traverse right (East) under the base of the Shadow Castle and Devonshire sectors, and continue past a steep loose gully and under the Jumble Hotel crag, almost to the base of the Puzzle Palace crag. Scramble up the steep left-trending gully (careful of loose sections) on the left side of Puzzle Palace, then horizontal Left (SouthWest) along the top of the cliff past above Albion slab, scrambling down below the top about twenty feet SouthEast.   ... or ...   Top anchor could also be reached by going out around way southeast to the top of the Tower Wall, then walking NorthEast along the top of the cliffs, then scrambling down below the top about twenty feet SouthEast.   ... or ...   Make a Trad lead of the Ballroom route. 

warning: The rock on and around this cliff has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 2. Baldy