Cool stemming in a double crack system to a small bulge.  Probably the best moderate gear route at Pigeon Cliffs.

I Thought This Was No Hands

Unknown

Pariah

Jazz Hands

Bird Of Paradise

Hands Required

Spit Or Swallows

Done Deal

Ghetto Blast

No Hands

Sack Lunge Direct.

Fistful Of Steel

Robbins Route

Sack Lunge

Finger Blast

Head up through thinner and thinner holds to an awkward crux between the 4th and 5th bolts. Bring your edging skills.

Thin crack and arete to a small ledge. Pass 2 bolts pulling off the ledge, then back into another thin crack. The crux is near the top, getting into a nice finger pod over a small bulge.

I retro-ed this route, not realizing that it had been done - the FA must have been terrifying! After removing a bunch of small loose cobbles in the bolted section, it might climb a bit better.

Begin up blocky pillars to the left of Sack Lunge Direct to a good ledge. Climb a very thin vertical crack system using liebacks and good edges to the first bolt. A .5 cam can be used in a short pod to protect the opening moves and keep you from falling backward off the ledge. Good edges on vertical terrain will eventually lead to a ledgy area where you'll discover is more awkward than it looks. Clip the bolt and move out left and get on top of the small bulge. More vertical face with good edges and crimps will deliver you to the top.

A two bolt anchor awaits on top.

Perfectly-spaced edges and sidepulls on a vertical pillar. The crux is probably pulling past the sixth bolt on big holds and poor feet.

Thoughtful climbing inset between two pillars.

Start up a blocky section that is much more solid than it looks and head into the double crack system.  Stem and jam your way up the left crack until it peters out, switching over to the right crack to finish.

Hardest of three moderate routes on the left side of the crag. Mostly fingers and hands. Still a bit dirty, but might get better if it cleans up.

This is a four bolt extension to "Bird Of Paradise" featuring vertical face climbing on mostly incut holds. Climb Bird Of Paradise and clip the anchors with a draw, scramble up a 10' section of easy 5th, and sail up the upper face. The entire route (Bird Of Paradise + SOS) is probably around 90' in length, so a 60m is fine.

The uglier cousin of "Finger Blast".  Starts with about 15' of easy but junky/blocky climbing (recommend not placing gear in this section due to some hollow rock).  The middle of the route is the business, moving quickly into a splitter tips crack.  From a small ledge above, either head right to Finger Blast or continue up the widening corner.  Finish at Finger Blast anchors either way.

This route is still a bit dirty but should clean up well with time and some traffic.

Decent moderate route on the far left side of the crag. Lots of stemming with big edges and an occasional hand jam thrown in. The crux is probably right at the top of the corner, where the angle steepens up a bit.

Blocky but easy start to a finger crack splitting a smooth face.  The crux comes low, pulling over a lip on to a small ledge.

Two bolts protect the upper section, where the crack turns into a seam, and the route moves onto the arete/face.  Finish on somewhat contrived, but fun climbing to the left, or up the easy but junky gully to the right.

Begin up the wide hand and fist crack (5.7) just left of the splitter off hand crack of Sack Lunge. Gain the ledge above and continue up a hands and finger crack along with some good edges. Pass a steep section and gain another ledge, then continue up passing the large roof on its left side (5.10b), then finally continue up the hand and fist crack with ample jugs and feet to the top. A two bolt anchor with chains can be found just below the top.

Blocky start to a widening crack.  The crux comes pulling past a chockstone onto a small ledge near the top.

There is some suspect rock in the first 20'...I added 2 bolts after the FA to protect this section.  The rock here isn't fall-off-in-your-hands bad, I just wouldn't want to place gear in it.  The second bolt in particular (which is just below a good nut placement) is mostly there to discourage climbers from placing a lower piece behind a large hollow block.  The rock is solid and the gear is good for the rest of the route.

Start up a right leaning hand and finger crack just to the left of a steep area of broken rock on the right. Follow the crack to a ledge where a good, obvious wide crack leads to the top of the cliff.

Excellent climbing featuring cool stemming to a corner with intermittent but good gear. One of the better moderate gear routes at the crag - worth a trip to the end of the wall.

A short but splitter crack that will test your tight hands and ring lock skills. Lower from the anchors on the ledge or head up and left through a steep section of broken rock (5.10a) to round the corner and continue up a hand and fist crack with many edges on the face to the top of the cliff and a two bolt anchor just below the top.

Killer finger crack in a corner to a funky wide stemming dihedral. The crux comes at the top of the finger crack before pulling on to a small ledge. You can climb around the crux using face holds a bit to the left, which probably clocks in around 5.9.

This route isn't listed in the guidebook that came out in 2014, but it's hard to believe it hadn't been done previously...if you know of a prior FA, I'll give the appropriate credit. Regardless, it's now clean and has its own anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 1. West Wall