This route is for those who just wanta say no to clipping bolts and test their mental skills with placing gear. Start from the ground where the rock abruptly changes color from dark to white.  Climb to the large ledge 15-20 feet up, then step left onto the steep face left of

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and follow horizontals (placing pro when you can) to a second large ledge (where the hard climbing on

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ends).  From the second large ledge, climb the reddish dihedral to chossy looking rock above to the rap anchors that shared with

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.

Note - To preserve the rap anchors, Metolius rap hangers, please DO NOT lower directly off the anchors as it puts unnecessary wear on them. Instead, use your own gear for lowering. The last person to climb should rap. (This comment is true for any route with fixed anchors but more so because replacing the hangers is a PITA).

Just Say No

Mountain Club Route

Green Buddy

Cough Your Off

The Kind

Reefer Madness

Black Hash

Cecret Lady of the Lake

Rezin Heads

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For those who are comfortable with gear can explore the

Cecret Lady of the Lake

.  Boulder up the face approximately 10' to the left of

Just Say No

utilizing horizontal placements. Midway is a large ledge that one can get a rest on before continuing up through a  broken face that sports a nice crack. The route finishes on some nice sandstone features with anchors at the top.

Note - To preserve the rap anchors, Metolius rap hangers, please DO NOT lower directly off the anchors as it puts unnecessary wear on them. Instead, use your own gear for lowering. The last person to climb should rap. (This comment is true for any route with fixed anchors but more so because replacing the hangers is a PITA).

This route was more than likely the first route on the wall and done before most climbers today were born. In talking to members of the Alpenbock Club none could recall doing the route so my guess is that it was done by members of the Mountain Club thus it's name. It is rated 5.9 cause at the time that was the hardest possible rating. Could be harder or easier by today's standard - you be the judge.

Start on the left side below a shallow grove and boulder up a series of downward sloping ledges that lead to the shallow grove. Climb the left side as it steepens at the top step right on to a large ledge.  Avoid the right side as it consists of some monster stacked blocks. Climb short dihedral system that ends at a lone tree with slings (new as of July 2009).

This route is often wet however it is surprisingly clean if you do not mind some cobwebs.

Climbs the bulg on the right side of the wall.

You need to scramble up the gully to start.  If you have a 70M rope you may be able to belay from below.

This is a long one.  Make sure you have at least a 60M and watch the ends.  Its a full rope lengh.

This route shares chains with Rezin Heads.

This one climbs just to the right of the last big pine tree on top.  Black hangers on route.

This route shares the ancors with Reefer Madness.

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starts on top of a large ledge that is 15' off the deck and climbs up a steep face (11a) that is protected by three bolts. Climbing past the bolts is

Cecret Lake

climbing at its best, although sadly short. Try to avoid using the holds on the arete to the left or the grungy corner to the right. Finish the face via a mantle to a ledge.

At the ledge step right and proceed up the arete using cams in horizontals for protection.  As you start up the arete it is possible to place gear in the grungy corner to the right. Continue up the arete trending slightly left as it broadens, ending at anchors that are shared with

Just Say No

.

Though heavily cleaned there is still come grunge on the route.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Green Stash Wall