This diminutive line is the first "Red Light" route encountered on the approach trail.  This climbs a system of small cracks on a SW-facing wall to the right of a rounded buttress, immediately above a steep section of trail.  

  The route begins with relatively easy lie-backing and thin jamming.  At the 3rd bolt the route slabs out and intricate moves (crux) lead to the chains.

Circle K

X File

WYSIWYG

Pony Ride

People Mover

Slightly longer than its neighbor to the right, this route offers similar climbing at a somewhat easier grade.  Begin just left of the rounded buttress with insecure liebacks up the thin cracks.  Ashort traverse at mid-height leads to easier ground and the anchors.  This route occasionally seaps after heavy rains.

Make some hard moves at the start to get established on the route.  Nice to pre-clip the first bolt and easy to scramble up the ledge left of the route to do so.  Continue upward making an awkward traverse left, and continue to the anchors making a few more tricky moves. 

  While it's nice to climb something overhanging of a more moderate grade at Palomas, this route is so amazingly contrived that it only gets 1 star from me.  Perhaps the crux of the route is not moving 2 feet left to stand on the pillar for the first two bolts.

An enjoyable easy slab route, (if slab routes can be considered easy).  Figure out how to get off the ground and past the first bolt.  Continue up towards the roof on easier ground, pulling a few more tricky moves to the anchors.

Crux is getting off the ground (first 15 feet), there is a big flake to your left when you start with good feet. As you move through the bolts the angle drops and remains slabby to the top. I recommend rapping off this route because it does wander a bit but you can be lowered.

This is the furthest North sector at Palomas.  this area is not really distinct from the Far Side II, but the character of climbing is a bit different, with generally much shorter routes, and a different setting.  At this end of the cliff the broad, wooded clff base is replace with thick brush growing right up to the cliff base trail.  The lack of shade is off-set by beautiful views of the Sandias to the West.  The cliff top can be accessed by treversing to the far north end of this sector, past WYSIWYG.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (10) Red Light District