Though this route is the same bullit hard rock as found on Severity Disparity, it has perhaps fallen into neglect. I recently did it and saw no chalk even deep in the crack or any sign of travel....too bad really because it is pretty good. The crux is high on this route and it may be worth it to just do the half of the first pitch as this is really a great 5.9+ or 5.10a pitch. Mega interesting moves in moderate terrain.

Originally, and as noted in the guidebook, one may pass this first set of anchors and climb a long first 5.10 pitch, but a set of rap anchors encountered on a ledge after an overhang is good in its own right as something to do.

Without Despair

Severity Disparity

Fata Morgana

Huggin' The Hardpan

Severity Disparity Direct

This is a 20 feet direct start variation that links up with the original

Severity Disparity

. Start 20 feet to the right of the original and climb straight up passing two bolts to continue on the original climb, into the crack, past the bolts and belay on the ledge. The upper pitch remains the same.

This is a two pitch line with fun traversing on bolts and a nice finger crack with lots of edges and boulder problems.  The second pitch is all bolts with mellow 5.11 climbing - assuming you spot the right holds.  It is easy to lead pitch 2 then lower off and let the other climber lead it, cleaning as they lower.

Yet another stellar line from JG.

This route is the furthest to climber's right looking up at the buttress and ascends a series of bulges and fun corners. Route starts to the left of the recessed, vertical strip of chalky-white rock (which itself is just left of the cleft).

Solid 5.8 climbing on each pitch with good pro and supplementary bolts. Crux of each pitch seemed to be pulling bulges, which were very fun and thoughtful for the grade.

We descended from the third anchors to the right facing the hardpan. A 70m was required, though if you brought webbing and a biner you could make use of a bolted anchor that is currently (March 25, 2016) bereft of chains/cord and make it down with a 60.

This "older" route is also very much worth a visit. A fixed alu piton marks the start just 2m to the right of Without Despair. The best part of the route IMO is the final headwall pitch. Great moves, great protection where you want it, you'll want to rap down and do it again!

I recently climbed this route and absolutely loved the 2nd pitch!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Severity Buttress