P1: 10b. Follow a crack/flake. The pitch has one bolt.

P2: 10c. Go straight up the east face of Orc Tower. This pitch is all gear. The photo shows the position.

Unlike other routes that go directly onto Orc Tower, this is reported to have no loose rock.

116 Orc Tower Rd.

The Opportunity of a Lifetime

Over Orcsposed

This route is fun and well protected, though the ledges are often covered in loose rock. Care must be taken to avoid knocking anything onto climbers at the Country. Avoid this route on busy days.

P1 (11b): From the belay ledge head leftwards on a steep but mellow traverse before cutting hard back to the right at a horizontal break. An oddly positioned bolt protects the crux and brings you to the base of a short OW leading to the belay. Consider using alpine draws to avoid drag.

P2 (12a): A gnarly layback (crux) brings you to a stance below...a gnarly layback. Continue upwards over a tricky roof to an anchor just below the summit of the tower. Features some exposed and desperate moves.

Walk off using the rungs or rap the route. Best rap route is straight down to Savage Gardens from the top of P1.

Goes more behind Orc Tower than on it.

Start from the ledge of "cream of the country", also the start of the second pitch of "116 orc tower road". Crawl through the hole accessing the seldom visited Orc Tower chamber room. Make your way to the back pedestal and get ready for some action.

P1: 10b Wild stemming protected by a thin crack on the main wall leads to a massive roof. Traverse left (west) and then up through a flaring fist crack to the notch between Orc Tower and the wall. A two bolt belay is on the Orc Tower side.

P2. 9 Traverse west out of the  gap and onto the wall, joining the upper hand cracks of what is probably Orc Wall (rusty pins were spotted at the alcove down and to the left of the obvious triple cracks at the top of the wall). Follow the crack.

A fine route with a high dose of adventure. Cool even on the hottest of days.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Orc Tower