A fun, steep, pumpy, jug haul using mostly large pockets.

Start from the trail and climb to a narrow, awkward ledge and clip the first bolt. Haul yourself up and right just a bit to the second bolt and then continue up and right to the third bolt. A rest is available up and left.

Clip the fourth bolt (to the right) and traverse right under the bulgy overhang. The fifth bolt lies a bit (wait for it...) up and right; clipping it and getting over the bulge is probably the cruxyou can't quite reach the tantalizingly near pockets over the bulge. Once over the bulge you are a move or two from the chains.

This is in the

Ruckman

guide as

Sans Nom

; The FA named it

Kill Your Lawyer

.

Kill Your Lawyer

Knuckle Up

Virtual Reality

Sandbagged by the Weatherman

The Edge of Chaos

Naked Nebula

Rhinoplasty

Naked Knuckle

A really enjoyable jug haul with a remarkably airy lower-off or rappel.

The Edge of Chaos

has some exciting, hard moves interspersed with good rests.

Get past the initial two bolts by classic AF pocket pulling over the starting overhang. The start is a bit tricky because the feet are thin, and after the first obvious ones, the correct pockets/jugs are a bit hard to find.

Continue up and right on less-than-vertical terrain to the third bolt, and then things get steeper. There are some fun liebacking moves, and as you start back left again, a confidence-building, off-balance, double sidepull move that is pretty cool. The left-trending top bit is pretty fun because your mind is telling you that you really don't want to go that way and follow the bolt line...it's just not natural to dangle your corpus over a bunch of air.

Cleaning the route while lowering or rappelling would be challenging, to say the least. Do yourself a favor and run up it on toprope to clean it.

This route starts with 40 feet of easy slab climbing to a campsite rest below the steep headwall.  Get psyched as it's on from here. Several two-finger pockets take you to the business, a big throw off a two-finger pocket to a good jug. Then it's big moves on big jugs to the top.

This route is really fun!  Lot's of great holds the entire way.   It has a cool cross through move to a pocket, some have found a kneebar around the guano filled pocket under the final overhang.   The crux is above the last bolt where you get a few hols that are not jugs like the rest of the route.   The bolts are very close for the most part so it might make a nice route for someone breaking into the grade.

A cool route, that could benefit from some traffic and some cleaning at the top.   Starts on perfect pockets to the roof.   At the roof, there's an awesome move up into the only pocket in the dead horizontal section and a nice lunge to some ok but dirty holds above.   From here, the rock quality really declines, most of the feet that I tried to use crumbled.  I expect this will get better and will be pretty cool if more people give it a go.

This route probably deserves 4 stars, but I don't think it is quite as good as the 4 star routes on the Billboard. So really it probably gets 3 and a half stars. Also, this is probably the easiest 12a tick in American Fork, which may be of interest to some folks!  After numerous AF sandbags, you might find this route to be more in the ballpark of what you expect for 12a.

This is the farthest left route on the Wave as you are facing it.  Just right of it is a 12d called Knuckle Up, and there is also a linkup between the two lines.  Anyway, stay left for Naked Nebula.

Starts slabbly, turns vertical, then steepens to overhanging.  The steep part has lots of good holds - a bit reachy in spots. Don't get me wrong about the grade, it is legit 12a (just not a typical AF sandbag) and you will be pumped at the anchors.  Fun!

Climb the first 4 bolts of Edge of Chaos, then go left for a few bolts, get the nostril, pull the roof to the arête, then head to Knuckle up's anchors. really mellow fun climbing to cruxy section pulling the roof, to really sinker pockets. the last 3 bolts were put up probably 25 years ago, so we finished the nose job and bolted it to the ground.

Beta addendum: Right hand undercling, Clip, stand tall and grab high crimp/pocket just left of arete.  High heel hook and right hand on whatever it’ll stick on. Right hand bump a couple times to arete. Throw left to pocket. (It’s not a throw from the nostril)

The linkup. Some arcane moves in the corner lead to an exciting face before hooking into Naked Nebula.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in White Wave Wall