A bouldery start leads to thin crimps broken up by juggy rests and follows up an exposed, blunt arete. Bungissima (11c) offers the direct finish, using a sling on the Bungasana anchors and pulling through the roof to the second set

Bungasana

Hippie With a Hand Grenade

Featherweight Champion

Otis and Knuckles, and the Infinite Itch

Chockstone (Ledangier)

Dr. Dias

Mal Bouche

An awesome pitch and one that should clean up to be a really popular route. We were pretty torn on the grade as the roof is definitely hard to grade. Seemed about as hard as Cat's Ass or Afro Samurai which are both 11d. 

  Clip a high bolt after climbing a flake for 20 ft. Runout but it's 5.5 moves with jugs. Currently there is a botched bolt so clip the higher of the two. Move up and left to surmount a stance below a face with two very different cruxes to navigate before reaching another stance below the roof. Clip the fixed draw and get ready for the business. Tackle the short but powerful roof and lip above and enjoy the view! 2-bolt anchor. 

  As always with my new routes I'm wavering on the grade. Input always helpful!

Begin on an easy start with some flaked rock, up to a large ledge below the second bolt. Thin face climbing leads to an optional anchor below the roof (5.10). Clip the first two roof bolts, the second of which has a steel fixed draw, then pull into the roof (crux) and onto a huge flake. Fire through the overhanging jugs and over the lip to reach the anchor. The crux is certainly height dependent but does go for shorties. Just expect to pull hard!

An unfortunately loose start detracts before gaining a good stance under the roof. Kiss the jug goodbye as you reach blindly over the roof and through a thoughtful traverse to the right. Hang out below the imposing corner while choosing your method to ascend it. Once established above the corner cruise up 40 feet of excellent 5.9 with beautiful views to the anchors. 

Fantastic pitch! Nice exposure and handcrack high up on a bottomless arete.  Good trad sections and bolts where you need em'. Start on Birch Tree corner and break right about 50' up at a line of 3 bolts on an awesome face.  Follow this to a sweet crack and an awesome stemming finish!

A route that almost has it all! Mal Bouche takes the obvious finger crack out the large roof system that bisects the majority of the Upper Tier. Below the roof is incipient crack/face climbing reminiscent of Gunks face climbing. Above the roof is a fantastic moderate off-finger to thin-hand crack. 

  Climb the incipient crack system (small gear, tricky placements) with increasing difficulty into a small right-facing corner which leads through a bulge to a bolt and an overhang. Collect yourself and breakthrough one more overhang to easier terrain, a stance, and a fixed anchor. Lowering off this fixed anchor makes this pitch 5.11a with G/PG gear (i.e. the gear is good, but it is tricky to place and it is comprised of tiny pieces). 

  If you elect to continue, you're faced with a roof finger crack boulder problem to turn the lip of the roof (crux). Once established on the face, enjoy the pleasant crack to the top of the cliff and a fixed anchor. 

  Alternatively if you feel like a puppet caught up in your strings trying to pull through the roof, consider the "Happy Puppet" variation which moderately bypasses the roof and climbs enjoyable face climbing to the shared fixed anchor. 

Var. "The Happy Puppet" 5.8+ G: From the mid-point fixed anchor. Traverse right under the roof 20' feet to the right end of the shrubby ledge. Gain the face and climb up and left past some left-facing flakes to a glue-in bolt (run-out, but easy). Fun technical face climbing past two more glue-ins leads to the top of the cliff and the shared fixed anchor.

A mix of harder sport routes and the classics Mal Bouche, and Chockstone.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in C - Upper Tier - Right End