Start in the short, wide crack/squeeze chimney in the center of Toller Tower’s northeast face.  From a stance at the top of the squeeze, discontinuous cracks (between tightly wedged blocks) lead to an easy slab which leads to the top.  Belay at the same small tree as for Rabid Retriever.

Fanatical Fetcher

Sticks

Cleaning Up the Yard

Gorgeous Eyes

Fine Feathers

White Paws

Rabid Retriever

Snowballs

This climb is harder than it looks.  Start in a ten-foot high wide crack 10 feet right of Cleaning Up the Yard.  From its top, follow a thin crack/seam over a blocky roof.  Finish up a slab to a small tree.  Descend by walking off or by moving to the White Paws or Sticks anchor and rappelling there.

Straight up the face between Fanatical Fetcher and Snowballs.  Six bolts are supplemented with small to medium cams.  The route has a separate two-bolt anchor (near the Snowballs anchor, but facing toward this route).

Note: the first ascent party debated long and hard about placing or not placing what is now the route's third bolt. Very good gear is available (and needed) shortly below and above this bolt. The greatly increased possibility of a hard-hitting fall onto a ledge without the bolt led to its placement.

Climb the chimney that starts in the back corner of the large ledge (where the left northwest face meets the northeast face).  Near the top of the chimney a ramp leads up and left to a small tree and the anchor of Gorgeous Eyes and White Paws. Discontinuous and, at  the top, dirty.

This crack and seam starts just left of the large corner at the back of the large ledge.  Finish to the left of a small pine, at a two-bolt anchor above a slab, 65 feet from the start (the anchor is shared with White Paws).  Protection is hard to place on this route (in seams and flared cracks).  Take small to one-each three and four inch.

Fine Feathers is on Toller Tower’s northwest face (to the right of the arete, facing into Broadway Gully).  Start on a large, thin block.  The first bolt protects a mantle onto a stance.  Three more bolts and gear protect varied climbing to a stance on the arete that separates the northwest and northeast faces.  Join Fanatical Fetcher here, at its last bolt (five lead bolts total).  The shared two-bolt anchor is 70 feet from the start.

This 70 foot face climb is on the left northwest face (the one above the back of the large ledge).  Start six feet left of the corner at the back of the ledge.  Thin moves lead to a bolt.  Continue over a protectable, up-and-left crack (½ to one inch).  More climbing, up and slightly right, on excellent rock past six more bolts and a 3½ inch slot (gear), leads to a two-bolt anchor shared with Gorgeous Eyes (listed next).

Start from the large ledge, at the left base of the arete that separates Toller Tower’s northeast and northwest faces.  One bolt protects moves up and right, over a discontinuous crack (gear) and onto the arete.  Continue up the arete past four more bolts to a two-bolt anchor on top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Toller Tower