Keep in mind, this route is slightly contrived, in hold selection. The V10 version FA'd by Ed, stuck to the least positive crimps and edges for the duration of the route, especially the roof, before the head wall. There is a semi-natural crimp line that directs you through these crimps. On the other hand, there is always a way to make the problem easier, by using larger holds. If you step off the route and think it is a V7, 8 or 9, you definitely didn't do the route in its original iteration. Also, I hesitated to change the grade to a YDS grade, which would be more appropriate. Ed called it V10, in the September 1996 issue of Rock and Ice, so I left the grade as is. When I did this route in the 90s, the only holds that were chalked, were the crimps that he had used. Now, just as most areas see an increase in traffic, so do the number of holds that are chalked and getting "off route" is likely, based on when I returned to climb it again a few years ago.

Start matched on a sloping flake on the far right side of the Bat Cave, close to the tree. Continue all the way left making your way onto the 100 degree overhanging wall, and top out almost as far left as you can go.

The original version has a very particular start and eliminates most of the larger holds in favor of following the line through thin hold sections versus the larger seam system.

Bat Cave Traverse (Right to Left)

Chlojo

Heat Seeker

Gripped By Death

Robin

Alfred

Ninja Estrogen Tricks

Bruce Wayne

This is a variation of

Heat Seeker

.

The problem begins on the far right side of the boulder underneath on two close crimps. Extend your feet to the far right pocket, and reach around roof with your right hand up to a three finger crimp. Bump your right foot up to high heel hook onto a small rail, and match hand height on a smaller two finger crimp. A two finger crimp works well as intermediate hold before grabbing a small pocket just above the previous hold. Acquire a sloper hold to the right,and finish problem on jagged crimps.

Start as far back on the left side of the under block as possible, move out to the point of the block, then transfer onto the main block. Some knee drops and heel hooks get you around the corner and up to the pocket for a match finish.

This line stops at the pocket, though it could probably be topped out. The line is a pretty consistent V1 to here, and then it gets harder, and the landing gets sketchier. We figured it would be better to have a higher quality climb than to force it to the top.

Heat Seeker climbs a short, friable roof over an exceptional landing. The problem revolves around a heel-toe-lock that will likely be easier for longer folks.

Squat start with hands matched on the jug. From there, place a left heel hook, reach a right hand incut edge, pull to a left hand edge then a right hand mini-pinch-edge, gain a left hand incut sloper, deal with a foot-cut-swing or remain tight and pop to the shelf above, mantel onto it, and finish up the remainder.

Stand start with both hand on the block that jets out, and move up the arete to top out.

Sit start in the big pocket, and avoid using the under blocks for feet. Move up trending left to the crimp rail, make a move left, then top out a couple feet right of the corner.

This problem was 6 months work for me, so I'm definitely emotionally attached to it, even if other folks aren't.

This problem starts on the right/center side of the Bat Cave on a HUGE jug. From there, match a heel, and move up some positive holds and out the roof to a positive rail. From there, match on some crimps, and make a big move to the obvious jug. I had to do this in a very dynamic way, but I've seen someone static it as well. From there, make a few easy moves before a big move to the sloping crimp below the iron flake. Top out...it's not as easy as I thought it would be.

Stand start with you hands on a ledge and your foot on a lower ledge to the left, rock onto your foot, and shift your weight onto it while reaching left for a sidepull. Stand it up, and work back to the corner to top out.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bat Cave