Amazing route, but the bottom boulder problem of this route is pretty damn desperate!

Start on a right hand mono and left hand crimp and move up into the undercling and above on absolutely minuscule crimps and foot holds to a super hard stab to a precise 2 finger pocket and finally better holds to clip the third bolt (V6?)

After a shake, trend left and up on pumpy sinker pockets (11+) on bullet stone. Rest when you can because the route ends with a massive deadpoint to an edge right below the chains. If you don't have the last move dialed you can easily blow it at the top :)

Stick clip the first bolt

Name comes from the classic song from "The Good, Bad, and the Ugly"

youtube.com/watch?v=PYI09PM…

Ecstasy of Gold

Stella

Tire Iron

The Undercling

Fool's Gold

The Leather Nun

Yowzah

Brass Lock Service

Canary In A Gold Mine

Rattlesnake Tambourine

Lump of Coal

A stellar route up a clean pockety bulge to a overhanging jug flake!!! Pretty unique and definitely worth doing if you are in the area to do Yowzah. Another Piana classic!!!

Really nice panel of rock tucked away in the trees of Miners. Start with a few easier moves for the first 2 bolts then navigate a difficult section with a big move to and from a mono. Hang on and enjoy slightly easier, but still pumpy, climbing to the chains. The name comes from the "Brass Lock Service Mystery."

A nice warm up if you end up far right at Miners. Pull off the ground with slot pockets to a juggy blocky section, and finish with a fun overhang with sinker pockets.

Layback the crack up the first few bolts to an undercling traverse left out of the roof. Pull the roof and follow the crack to the top of the buttress.

I found the 3rd bolt cruxy to clip, and the traverse out left to the next bolt to be pretty heads up. Would be much better if more of the vegetation was cleaned out of the crack. Not the best warm up.

I'll go out on a limb here and give this one 4 stars. Definitely some of the best stone around, and some of the jugs on this route are gigantic.

The crux comes early with a boulder problem off sidepulls that ends in a hueco around the second bolt. One more slightly tricky move leads you to some of the biggest holds in the area on beautiful orange/blue stone.

Highly recommended.

Super short, but really fun moves on sinker pockets on a golden streak.

A wild route tucked in a cool spot on the cliff.

Climb an easy pillar to moves on the face before the large break. Contemplate how steep the thing is, and start to crank on what feels like a 45 degree overhang for about 40 feet. The moves are relatively consistent throughout, just hang on! If you like climbing in the Red, go find this line.

This is a nice route!

The crux comes early within the first 3 bolts. It starts with a thin engaging slab that goes up and left to a crimp rail. Make a big move right to a hidden pocket and up to more featured terrain. Great stone.

Helps to have a stick clip and the 3rd draw extended.

Decent 5.10 for the area! Scramble up to the first bolt off the ledge and then utilize features in the seam for 2 bolts to a variety of pockets. There is a slight bulge at the top of the route but the holds are big and it is fun climbing. Crux is probably the tricky move to the big pocket between bolts 2 and 3.

It is nice to have a warm up close to "Yowza" and "Rattlesnake Tambourine"

Great rock, but is pretty short and sharp. The holds are huge!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Super Platinum Blonde