This one has tricky bolt-protected face climbing and a splitter thin-hands corner, and it even stays dry in the rain.  There is a second pitch as of 2008, which wasn't freed on the first ascent but is likely 5.11.  There is a hard wide section with a swift's nest in it so this pitch might be good to save for the fall or winter.

Elvis Memorial Corner

Unknown Tower – Four by Four Fire

Sweet Jane

Moab's Super Crack

Finish Line Tower- If You Ain't First, You're Last

Sunset Tower

Quarantine Quintessence

The Joker

Class Act

Sport/Mixed Climbing Near 313 Turnoff

Red Rocket Tower- Afternoon Delight

"Sapper", the tower being "The Pillbox"

Candy Corner

The money pitch is just what it sounds like—hope you like assembly line golds because this baby goes and goes.

Pitch 1—Definitely robs the route of a star. Ramble up some loose ledges to the first right-facing corner, a rather awkward but short grunt up to the ledge below the main splitter. A bad gatekeeper pitch that is worth doing to get to the goods. (50 ft)

Pitch 2—Surmount the initial off-width problem off the deck to gain the main event, the perfect hands crack that stretches uninterrupted and steeply to the anchor. Yeah buddy!!!!!!(70 ft)

So if you want 'Supercrack' but can't swing the time to get down to the Creek, get on this Superfun substitute! (see what I did there?)

This is a great, short tower with practically zero approach. If you have an hour or two to kill, this is an ideal choice. Even though this route is southwest facing, the route is shaded all day.

I didn't notice the other route up the tower until we summited the tower and found a single rappel bolt (rusted pins are very hard to spot from the ground). I would have probably attempted the other route first and thus the unknown tower name. That other route begins on the southeast side of the tower and veers to east face. It also appears someone attempted a thin aid line on the east face but bailed and took their bolt hanger (noticed on the rappel). History and names would be interesting.

Four by Four Fire begins on the southwest side of the tower between the wall and the tower. Aid through two bolts to a roof. Clean aid through the roof and then climb easy but run-out face (5.6) to the top. Rappel 80 feet northeast down the tower – now a 2 bolt anchor.

Awesome little tower with big stem, bombay and squeeze moves.

Climb a crack up and right through some rotten sections of rock until it runs out.  What use to be nailing has turned into a #3 or #4 crack after blocks came out.  Clip a bolt and free out of your aiders 8' to the summit!

This apparently might go free at .12 or .12+ with the crux being up top.

Anchor bolts are ten feet east of the top out because the rock at the top out was hollow.

Pitch 1: Climb a shallow corner to a beding seam, move left two feet and continue up the crack.  Move left to another crack when the one your in peters out.  Continue up past a drilled pin to an awesome bolted belay.  100' C2.

Pitch 2:  Climb the crack until you reach a drilled pin and step right to a corner.  Climb the corner for about 10 feet to another awesome bolted belay.  5.8 C2 100'.

Descent: One 70 meter rope will get you down in two rappels.

Starting on crisp thumb stacks; follow the arching, clean, left facing corner past great stems through the hand sizes. Get stoked at the bulge clipping a protection bolt before committing to the bust a move crux. Slip in some thin gear to fingers as you make your way back to the rim. A layer of lightly calcified material has flowed over this route helping preserve the clean edges and making the Navajo sandstone more solid than in other places.

Really cool overhanging Zig-Zaging finger Crack. Hard version of Anunaki... The start is thin but easy. One hard move gets you to the finger crack. From there it's .4-.5-.75 Camalots.

This route RULES! Pitch 1;  Right facing crack system with the 5.11 lieback. (85') Pitch 2;  Climb an O Wth crack past a drilled piton, then more O W crack (5.10+) to rap station. (80')

Climb 1: Primarily face climbing past a few bolts leads to a short crack finish (fingers and hands).  Single rope.  5.10d (FA: P Irby, Hickok)

Climb 2: Face climbing up to and then across a crack(slot?).  Continue up to a crux move at a small bulge.  Single rope.  5.11- (FA: J Hickok, Irby)

Pitch 1:

There appears to be many different options on pitch one, but the ultimate goal is to get on the big ledge about 50-60 feet up. All options seemed pretty loose.  We climbed a line a little to the left, the second half of which was walking up a sandy ramp in a chimney. Two bolt belay. 5.7 70'.

(Note: The anchor on top of pitch 1 was there before us.  There was no anchor on top of the tower.)

Pitch 2:

Climb the obvious splitter (C1 or 5.12-). After the crux in the first 30' the difficulty eases but the quality of rock diminishes.  Continue to the top. 190'.

Rappel the route.

Immediately after you turn onto 313 en route to Canyonlands N.P., you will notice a tower on the south side of the road. Virtually every climber driving this route has said, "I wonder who did that?" I was in that group until today when I went to look and see if anyone had been there. Apparently, none had. No pin scars, no anchors, no knowledge with my in-tune buddies.

The climb is worthy for the first pitch and  the fact that it is an easy, iconic tick. I got lots of "honks" while climbing it. The views are great. However, the upper pitches are not memorable.

P1 Down and right of the tower is a chimney with fun climbing. There is a hand crack in the back of it, but the climbing is much like that you might find in Thailand... seriously.  There is some loose rock, but by and large it is interesting rock and fun climbing. A #6 friend will protect the crux (top). A #4 camelot will protect it too, but further below and thus a dangerous fall would be the potential. Top out to the right side and traverse around and to the left to find a chain anchor in huecos (a tree is also there on the right). 5.8

P2 Ascend up  through huecos towards the tower, then a hard right around an awkward, unprotected bulge. It's ugly. An easier line is likely further right on slabs that have no pro. 5.7

P3 From the notch climb up on loose rock about 25 feet to get in any size of cam. From there, it is jiggery pokery with some bolts (4) and some placements. You will want a couple of hand pieces. A few free moves, and you're on top. This pitch will likely go free at a loose 5.10, but I was alone and thus aided up much of it.

Way sweet little corner. start up a slab passing one bolt to sweet hands to a pod. climb past the pod to another pod and on to the top. way fun, "easy" 5.8. bomber 2 bolt anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Random - Unsorted