This is a nice, little sport climb on the right end of the east face of Crag of Fear.

Start on thin, somewhat fragile feeling edges on a vertical face.  The holds pull you slightly right of the bolt line.  Gain the ledge 2/3's the way up.  Follow holds slightly right of the bolts at the top as it merges with

Mocha

.

Smokin' Joints

Guano a Guano

Burnin' Rubber

Tibble

Mocha

Unemployment Line

Who's Nailin' Palin

Birthday Boy

The Buckets Stop Here

Tiptoe Through The Two Lips

This is a TR line that inserts itself between

Burning Rubber

and

Smokin' Joints

on entirely independent holds.  It was named in honor of

Dave Clark 5.10

who celebrated his 59th birthday here.

You can start in the crack or on the subtle left-facing arete on jugs.  Suddenly the holds get small for a while.  Gain the left end of the ledge of

Smokin' Joints

.  The crux may be the final bit to the top.

Happy Birthday, our dear friend.

Okay, it is THE obvious feature on the east face and you just have to climb it...once.  So, from below, you just wonder if that is a cubic foot of guano or not...and can you climb it without getting guano'ed?

Well, this moderate is probably the easiest on the crag, and there is probably more than a cubic foot...and it is "porcelain-ized".

Start near a cool hold on the left wall.  Pass a small guano lump that is dry.  Move up on largely guano-free holds.  Inspect this impressive mass of guano oozing from a wood rat den.  Continue up the fissure.  Ignore the 2 bolts from

Who's Nailin' Palin

.  Find a crux near the top above the third guano deposit.  Rappel from 2 bolt anchor of

The Buckets Stop Here

.

This is probably on the lean side of a star.

Obviously, this feature may have been climbed previously.  If it is your route, accept our apologies for giving it a playful name and tell us the name and other info and we'll update it.

This is probably the most fun route on this face, if you are taller than 5'5".  Even at 5' 10", it felt reachy.  It has good horizontal features that you can suss out.  This is probably not a good kid route.

The easier start is slightly to the right.  Chase bolts.  Around the 3rd bolt you can either stay left (may have longer reaches) or venture right.  The crux is probably the 4th bolt as you approach the anchor.

Rappel from a 2 bolt anchor.

This is rated by Rich Perch, Dan Hare to be a 5.10.

This is a line that draws the eye as you look at the left end of the east face.  It currently is a toprope and should probably stay that way due to the proximity to the hiking trail.

Go up the right side of the slightly overhanging face. There is a crux about 1/3 the way up. The rock is friable in spots.

There are probably at least 2 other possible lines/variation on this narrow face to the left which will probably be a bit harder.

We just gave a name to it in honor of a pet rodent. Obviously, this may have been done previously, but clearing out some modest-sized fragile flakes above muddies the waters. If you have info about this climb, please let me know, and I'll update it.

Do you want some microscopic amount of adventure?  On the far right side of the east face, there is a line that can take some gear.  Just to its left are 2 chalk dots of a project line close to the ground.  On lead, we discovered someone has drilled a hole up high on the left finish.

About 20 feet to the right of

Burning Rubber

, there is a tiny right-facing dihedral.  Pull aboard, place some cams, be a bit careful with some of the flakes here.  Gain a ledge.  From here, there are 2 finishes.  Slightly to the left, you can sift through a variety of face holds to find a solid path upward.  Slightly to the right, you can gingerly stand on the flake and reach right.  Either way, you probably don't want to blow these moves above the ledge.

Obviously, this feature may have been climbed previously.  If it is your route, accept our apologies for giving it a playful name and tell us the name and other info and we'll update it.  For now, the name is in honor of Dave's loyal dog.

Subsequent to this initial posting, Dan Hare and Rich Perch bolted and ascended a line called

Smokin' Joints

, 5.10, on 8/4/11, that joins Mocha at about half height.

This is currently the leftmost bolted line on the east face of this crag.  It makes for a fun line with a pinch of spice.

Start with a lieback of sorts with a spot on somewhat crumbly rock.  Clip the first bolt.  Continue up to the 3rd bolt.  The crux may be the reach here as those 5'5" or less may find it harder here.

Some may find this to be in the 5.9 range.

Rappel off a 2 bolt anchor.

This is rated by Paul Gagner, Rich Perch, to be a 5.9.  Due to the limitations of the website, a poster can't list 2 separate ratings, so their rating is reflected in the L->R: on the area page.

This is a pleasant climb on probably the lowest angled rock on this crag.  It makes for a good warmup, if you want that sort of thing.  The overlap at 3/5's height may challenge the very short...kids.  Start up a slab on big holds.  The holds get smaller at midheight.  Pull the overlap on jugs.  Continue on easy rock to the top.

Rap from a 2 bolt anchor.

This is rated by Rich Perch, Dan Hare to be a 5.8.  Due to the limitations of the website, a poster can't list 2 separate ratings, so their rating is reflected in the L->R: on the area page.

This is a fun line with a thin traversing crux that may stump the shorter climbers out there.

Start up and climb just right of the bolt line.  The holds get small just below the 4th bolt.  Here, you may traverse left delicately or you can veer slightly right.  Both felt about 10- to me.  At this point, the plus-ape index folks will reach a jug on the left variation.  Those not-so-lucky will fight a sloper or two off balance to gain the same jug.  Pull the overlap on good holds.

FWIW, Deb thought this was 9+, but her footwork is better than average.

Rap from a 2 bolt anchor.

This is rated by Rich Perch, Dan Hare to be a 5.10.  Due to the limitations of the website, a poster can't list 2 separate ratings, so their rating is reflected in the L->R: on the area page.

This is the second from the left bolted route on the east face.  It goes up and over 2 small bulges near the start and near the top.  The first crux comes before the 1st bolt, low to the ground.  A spot may be nice if pressed at this grade.  There are some big holds in the middle of this.  Near the 4th bolt, the climb may be a bit reachy for the height-challenged.

This is rated by Rich Perch, Dan Hare to be a 5.9.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Crag of Fear