One committing move at the middle of the climb.

No more Mr. nice guy

Baked Potato

Dancing Katchinas

Effigy

Desperately Seeking Oxygen

Last of the Mohicans

Stolen Thunder

Detachment

A Dangerous But Irresistible Pastime

Screaming Banshees

The Winds of Change

Tin Man

Another great route. Nice holds on pockets and cobbles.

This is a great route on pockets and cobbles up a vertical wall. 5 bolts to rap anchor.

Big steep cobbles to a rest then some loose rock leads to nice pockets in water channel at the top.

Vertical pockets lead to lower angle before last steep pull to anchors.

Steep cobbles with big reaches to thin technical pockets at top.  Probably the best route on the crag.

The route is an old abandoned route that was bolted several years ago.  I had left the route alone for several years because their was a red tag.  I took the red tag off last spring because it had turned white due to sun bleaching and no one had ever returned to give it any attention. I spent two full sessions cleaning the route. Their was A LOT of loose Rock. If you get off route you may still encounter some so I recommend a helmet for your belayer.

You get into the crux of the route about 8 feet up the wall and it doesn't let up until you have clipped the 4th bolt(25 ft). The crux requires powerful committing moves on small but mostly positive holds (V6ish).  After pulling the roof you find an awkward but decent place to catch a shake. Continue through a few  more bolts of good 5.11 climbing (35+ feet). Last 15 ft of the route is a bit disappointing as the route was bolted with the idea of creating a 3 pitch route. So the climbing turns into a 5.9 traverse to the anchors. I recommend back cleaning the traverse after sending, then lowering off a carabiner.

I tried to make the description detailed so anyone can come prepared.  So if it sounds a bit intense its really not too bad. The route climbs well and is well worth the effort.

The upper pitches need a lot of cleaning and probably an additional bolt or two.  I am unable to dedicate the time into tackling such a large project. I was pleased to have freed the first pitch. If someone takes the time to clean the upper pitches it would make for a great and difficult multi-pitch route.

Deceptively steep line running on both sides of the arete with good cobbles and pockets.

big cobble stones and pockets to a shared last bolt and anchor.

Big cobbles to blunt arete with hard to find pockets at the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Shinobe