There are plenty of big holds on this testpiece, one of Joshua Tree's hardest, but they can be difficult to use and well spaced at times. An exceptionally powerful and beta intensive line, bring all your core strength for this one!

Starting at the well chalked "tongue" where Pigpen starts, toss rightward straight into a small crimper and an eventual match at the ridiculous bowl underclings, then make a huge move to a sidepull with thumbcatch and apply various foot trickery with more hueco/bowl underclinging to eventually reach down and around to slopers above the lip. Surf the good lip slopers back left to finish on jugs.

Starts in your face and doesn't let up at all until you're out of the sidepull, at which point it relents. A true masterpiece that combines a brilliantly cryptic beta puzzle with raw, sustained body tension and accuracy.

One of the few harder lines here that is relatively skin-friendly. Errata: Toni's last name is incorrectly spelled in the original Miramontes guidebook (new guide is out anyday now!), I have used the correct spelling in this entry.

Youth Body Explosion (aka Lamprecht Problem)

Pigpen

Nicopress

The Easiest Yogi Eliminate Variation

Start as for Pigpen. From the bucket rest bust out to the arete and power up pinches and slopers to the lip and throw out left to a good hold. Top out on some slopey goodness.

Behind Cyclops rock is this awesome boulder problem. A sit start in a cave starts you out 10' of finger crack through the roof in the cave, to a tight-hands swing around the lip and then fingers, off fingers and tight hands lead to a funky top out that is for many the crux.

A simple mantle problem that is much harder than it looks. Jump to the shelf at the lip of the boulder, mantle, and topout direct. Crux is getting feet up after the press.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Pigpen Boulder