This description is for the huge overhanging dihedral with a gaping offwidth inside.

This isn't just a climb, it is an adventure! Its history of being climbed is unknown and highly unlikely. I've been up it several times and once with a scrub brush. It is getting cleaner each time, but it still comes with a little dirt.

Once you work your way up and left past all of the ledges and boring flaky rock (5.5) you are rewarded with one of the best cracks in Humboldt County. After the last ledge, the enormous overhang looms above. From here on up, if you fall on top rope, you'll take a massive swing out into space and will not be making it back to the cliff; it is all or nothing.

The 50 foot overhang is strenuous and unrelenting offwidth using everything from fists, forearm jams, arm bars, and some welcome arm locks. You will pass several bulges, a few of them pretty sizable, and all of them providing an obstacle. Pass the larger roofs in the beginning with exciting chimney moves and good jams. After the bigger roofs, alternate between a jammed knee and stemming.

Breathtaking amount of air all around you on this route!!

Ocean Overhang

Doozy

Mussels For Bones

Chimney Route

God Of The Gaps

A Fine Line

Doozy follows an incredible line up a very overhanging wall. It starts with 12 feet of junky rock that is quickly forgotten as it quickly transitions to fantastic high quality rock for the rest of the route.

Follow overhanging bulges up to a ledge where you can sit and rest. Continue up the dihedral up to a few jugs. The holds die out on the arete, so move right to step into the crux with a wild high step and overhanging sloping rails (V6).

The lower crux is very steep so the falls are quite exciting. The harder upper crux is overhanging but easy to work on TR. This is another route we've spent many days cleaning, so please get out there, and enjoy this beast!

Climb a VERY aesthetic 5.10+ section off the deck, that alternates between liebacking and sweet delicate face moves.

The crux (mentally and physically) is climbing an overhung block about halfway up the route. There used to be a shake out jug before the block, but it has since been broken, which has made getting onto the block much more interesting.

Despite its appearance, the block itself is pretty solid.

There's no need to pull directly out on it, and you won't want to! Treat it like an alpine route, and be gentle.

The finish is pretty darn perplexing, I'll leave it up to you to figure it out.

On the far right of Mussel Rock is a 18" chimney. Climb this up up to a steep dirt slope.

If leading, climb the fun chimney with plenty of gear. At the top of the chimney, place a #4 cam under a roof and realize the fun has ended. Mantle up to the dirt ledge. Climb 25' of uncomfortable unprotected steep dirt up to a small tree you can sling for an anchor.

To top rope, hike around to the top of Mussel Rock. From there walk south on a small trail until you can go no farther. Look for two large trees a foot apart. Set the anchor from here (15' above the small tree you would sling for the lead).

Climbs the right leaning crack between Ocean Overhang and Mussel Crack.  Start with a short sequence of finger locks to an excellent rest, then power through the bouldery crux section. A bit sharp and chossy for now, but it should clean up quick. Finishes with a series of overhung hand jams eventually easing into a moderate hand crack and dirty top out.

Took about 4 trips to clean and dial the beta.  Definitely worth the effort of putting up the top rope.

This is a very fine line with very *fine* holds. The holds are tiny and one hold in the twenty foot crux actually points down. The rest are all side pulls, gastones, and laybacks. Two optional starts; left is easier but chossy and right is a fun crack, both merging at about 12' high. The crux climbs much steeper than it looks and contains several unforgettable sequences including a double gaston traverse, wild high stepping, and a delicate lieback sequence. After the crux is a good shake out stance before finishing up with big reaches between large pinches on the overhanging prow.

The sequences are technical and require much attention to your body english. After I unlocked the sequence a few years ago, and repeated it a few times, I still think it is one of the best 5.12 crimpfests in our area!

Anchor at the upper tree above Mussels For Bones with a short static line with a masterpoint redirected around some shrubbery, aiming for as far south as you can get it. It is easiest to

rap down the static, then pass the knot and rap down the TR line to make sure it's redirected nicely.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mussel Rock