Start matched on a big sloper.  Figure out how to move right through good holds to reach jugs in the crack.  From here climb leftwards on good holds to the finish, climbing under a few branches. 

  Very aesthetic route with great movement.  Probably on the easier side of V6.

That Hi-Pro Glow

Gravy Train Tryout

Dead Legends

Longshot

The French Tickler

Chow, Chow, Chow

Mr Serious

From the two positive incuts, traverse right thru shouldery moves to an obvious incut crimp you can match on.  From here slap to the top and pull a tricky mantel to get established on top of the boulder.

This alternate start to "Hi Pro Glow" is worth doing if you have already done the classic.  Shared start with "You Bring Out the Mess in Me" on good holds up to great jugs.  Make a large span left, pull the crux which is matching and climb up easier moves to the finish.

Start matched on undercling at head height. Make a big move up to an angled edge and continue up on excellent iron rock.

This route is the obvious line in the center of Stable Rock.  Begins on the large sloping jugs at head height and climbs straight up through small crimps and sloping gastons to a committing lunge at the finish.   

  Beta:  Begin on the sloping jugs and take the first 1/2 pad crimp with your right hand.  Heel up on the sloping jugs and reach up left hand to a good but slightly sharp gaston.  Stand up and get a horrid right hand crimp, then back step the 1/2 pad crimp with your right foot and lunge for a decent crimp out and right from your right hand (crux).  Left foot goes on a good smear onto up your left hand (coolest move ever) and lock off to the first gaston sloper.  Move your feet out left to get the second right hand gaston sloper.  Left foot up to the decent crimp and lunge for the sloping jug at the top out.  Mega-classic.  My favorite line in Hueco.

Terrifying top out. 

  Easy to start up huecos then ledges. Move up the arete to sloping edges above to a very thin and technical top out. Beware of the drop off to the right.

From the start make a move into a good sidepull then a hard move into the perfectly circular pocket. Figure out how to move your feet up and pull off of the pocket to get to something terrible and either use it or turn the pocket and go again. A few easier moves up on better holds takes one to the top of the boulder. 

There is a lower sit/laydown start down to the right that makes this problem V10 and is called Dead Serious

Most of the problems here are very sheltered from the elements. The problems are all on the insides of corridors or the undersides of jumbled boulders. There are also sveral boulders around Stableboy rock which are also quite sheltered as well. 

Classics on Stableboy are Mr Serious and The French Tickler.Hi-Pro Glow is a classic V6 and part of completing the sign of the devil (Hi-Pro, Alf in a Blender and Uncut Yogi) a popular day for those that are able.Two classic testpieces in the area are Rumble in the Jungle and The Flame.A last boulder in the area that is more out in the open has Longshot on it which is high and commiting, but easier than the other classics in the area.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Stableboy Rock and Vicinity