Start in the short crack to the right of the dark streak. Move a tad left, then continue up and right following the obvious quartz vein past massive crystal jugs. Finish over a chockstone to chains. Route ends on same massive ledge at top of 2nd pitch of Skyline. Small runout in the middle, and the pro can be slightly tricky in places, but the climbing is fairly easy. Fun and airy in places!

Descent:

TWO ROPE rappel, or finish upper pitches of Skyline and walk off right.

Crystal Caper

I Wanna Be Your Dog

Sesame

Unknown Chimney

Pedro

Angle of Discord

Loose and Dirty

Faux Buddhas

Beautiful Freak

Crack'n a Smile

Layback and Be Cool

Geometric Distractions

Eli the Husky Dog

Headline

Goodbye Babylon

Guestworker

Foolishness of Youth

Electric Horseman

Alice Springs

Diptych

Basic Goodness

Red Beard's Delight

Unknown

KnifeHandChop

Hippy Bandana

The CDC

15 Pieces of Flair

This spicy two pitch line parallels Slyline to its left on the south face of Skyline Buttress. It was done ground-up on-sight.

P1 - Start the first pitch in a chossy, pink, right-facing dihedral capped by a small roof about 15' left of the first pitch of Slyline. Climb the corner with a good crack, but suspect rock, to the cruxy hand (or foot) traverse left 7' under the roof. Easier climbing up small corners and blocks on good dark rock leads to the comfy belay ledge beneath the crux chimney pitch on Skyline. (5.10 80')

P2 - Climb the 15' crack up to the belay bolts for the second pitch of Ithica Connection and launch up the blunt green rib which forms the left side of the Skyline Chimney. This is a strenuous and strange pitch up shallow flared cracks with cerebral climbing and sometimes tricky pro. The crux is climbing up the lower rib and wrapping around right toward the chimney into the twin upper crack-grooves. (5.11a 100')

Once around, you can make a big stem across the Skyline Chimney to rest in spots, but you have to leave the stem to enter the upper cracks. If you use the stem to move up the middle stem (instead of just as a rest) it makes it slightly easier; it would be a very proud and burly lead to do this without the stem at all! All three members of the FA party climbed using different methods, with the leader stemming just for rests and gear placement, and one follower stemming up the middle section, and the other following without stemming at all.

A long moderate climb with a burly, for the grade, lie-back/undercling crux.  Nice rock climbing throughout.  An exposed and excellent 5.9 face protected by 4 bolts finishes the last 30' of the pitch.

Another fine Hall/Swanson route in this area. Climb up over easy ledgey terrain. From here the climbing quickly reaches crux mode, and is sustained most of the way up. Very odd body positions required to make the clips.

Descent:

Rappel route.

Pillar approximately 75 yards south of Ashes of Stone.  Walk on an independent trail around to the southeast face of pillar. Start at base of short finger crack below 2 bolts.  Moderate trad interspersed with 5. 11+ and .12 face sequences characterizes the climb.  Chain anchors.

Scramble up the massive, easily protected ~5.4 gully for about 50 feet before the more technical climbing starts. Protection gets gradually harder as the chimney constricts. Replace claustrophobia with acrophobia by moving out from the constriction, and start stemming to pull the exposed, runout roof. This is the crux. It's hard to protect this roof and a fall would stuff you in the narrow constriction below. Provided the lack of sunlight seen by this chimney, it was somewhat icy, but surmountable, as of late April, 2020.

There are no bolts at the top of this route, but I slung the obvious boulder at the top, and backed it up with 2 pieces for belay. If you are feeling lucky, there is a single bolt on the right of the top out ledge which could potentially be used for a rappel, otherwise continue up Skyline Arete.

If you know the name of this route, please let me know so I can change it.

Start on a lower angle, balancey face into some large pocket/dish features. Move through the second pocket/dish (crux), over the bulge, and through some slightly easier, but still thought provoking terrain, to the chains.

Descent:

Rappel route.

Right leaning hanging corner and bolts. Funky movements...Is it a corner, a slab, a roof? So confused

As the name implies, this climb is somewhat dirty and loose. The movement is fun, however.

Start the same as for "Basic Goodness", after the initial 20' continue straight up through the overhanging bulge ("Basic Goodness" traverses right here).  Some steep and desperate movement through 3 bolts leads to a great river face prow finish.

Start 20' right of "Sesame" (furthest east of first cluster of Hall/Swanson sport routes on south side of Skyline)

Five red/black hangers sit above a perched belay ledge. Two 5.12 cruxes off the belay lead to 70'

of 5.10' trad with a sneaky .11 crux.  Sweet right facing corner finish.  Two bolt rappel anchor.

Start underclinging right off the ground.  Clip 3 bolts and tiptoe over to the smile, where a few more moves put you in a pod with a fixed pin.  Continue up the fun, right leaning lieback crack past one more bolt and some gear before stepping over left to a large ledge.  Chain anchor.

Climb the thin right-leaning seam using all of your well earned Gally technique.

Climb past bolts on big bread loaf pinches. Consistent movement throughout with several .11- cruxes.

Climb through the first few bolts of the "Hipster Slab" and then step onto the face 30' left of "Goodbye Babylon".  Follow intricate face moves protected by gear and bolts to a steep upper headwall.  Powerful and exposed moves on good holds lead to a fixed rappel anchor.

NOTE:  The crack that forms the middle 1/3 of the route begins 15' left and above the bolted start.  While appealing, this crack hides two very hollow stacked/wedged blocks each of which weigh a few hundred pounds.  At this time trundling of these is not an option.  The first ascensionists do not recommend climbing on and in no way placing gear in the cracks surrounding these blocks.  The proper start avoids these dangers to the right.

Start 30' high on the steep ramp referenced on page 163 of the Dockins guide.  Belay bolt for safety.  Hard 5.11 crack/fall-away layback moves off the gun protected by a good nut placement.  At 20' gain a stance and a bolt out left.  Thirty feet of 5.11+ with 4 bolts followed by a moderate corner with two bolts leading to 40' of steep 5.10 face climbing on good gear.  One bolt leads to a nice exit sequence and a fixed anchor.

A fantastic sport climb high up in the canyon. Pretty sustained climbing, but great rests between harder sections. Very thoughtfully bolted. No clips feel stressed, and the bolts are very close together.

Descent:

Rappel route.

Either continue from Layback and be Cool (correct form) or take the 5.9 sneak from the left (12c). Step left from the original bolt to easy crack to the crux at two bolts (If someone finds/excavates decent gear, chop the buggers). Rest and continue up a rather traddy butt flare to the anchors.

Scramble up some ledges underneath the bright red streak. Step right over some ledgey terrain and into the left facing, rightward slanting dihedral. A few delicate feet moves are the crux of this route.

Descent:

Rappel.

Rambling face climbing on good rock throughout the climb.  The first half is protected by bolts along with a couple pieces of gear.  A distinct 5.11 crux sequence on bolts awaits in the middle.  Fun climbing protected by a 2" cam to small fingers gear and a bolt rounds out the climb.

Start in the beginning crack of "Goodbye Babylon", 5.11c/d, probably feels like 5.12 for people under 5'10".  Continue climbing through the rightwards traversing crack at 5.11.  Fantastic moves with good gear lead through the crack.  Roll out of the crack towards its termination and climb 25' of 5.10- bolt protected face.

River face of pillar located 75 yards south of the middle of Skyline Buttresse's south face.  Done on sight ground up in loose conditions.  From the amount of loose rock below crux there is no way this was climbed previously.  Cleaned after FA.  Fun climbing with true crux pulling into hanging corner 40' up.  Be glad you didn't do the FA. Gear belay on top and walk off south.

From right side of low overhanging cave boulder 10' up and left to a stance with a bolt (there are plenty of sticks afoot).  Proceed up and left placing a micro-cam (offset is best)and continue on good holds to right facing corner with 6' horizontal roof. Use crack climbing technique to surmount the roof at 5.10d, 4" cam unit useful.  Mind how your rope runs around the roof.  Then 30' of good jam-crack lead to anchors.

Recently given a thorough cleaning and a new anchor (shared with Headline). This is a great line for the aspiring 5.11 leader. Great protection through the finger crux. Another classic Gallatin finger crack.

A nice straightforward route.  Take the easy slabs up the start of "Electric Horseman".  Instead of veering right on EH, climb straight up through a 1" crack in an obtuse corner.  Fifteen feet up, the crack closes out and 4 bolts protect a corner capped by two small roofs.

A good short easy climb if climbing in the upper skyline area/need a bit more after climbing Skyline. Climb the left side of the arete until you can reach around and clip the first bolt. Make an exciting move right around the arete, then straight up to the anchor.

Descent:

Rappel route.

A short and sweet thug fest through the roof on the left side of the face. Runout at the top but one bolt keeps you off the ground.

This route starts on "Crack and a Smile" for the first 2 or 3 bolts and then traverses left into the obvious flair with fingers in the back.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Skyline South