This long and enjoyable route is the longest sport route in NW California; it begins near the lowest point at Cecilville and tops out the highest point on the prow that looms over the summit ridge. The anchors are set high above the ledges to reduce friction while pulling ropes; a PAS won’t be long enough, so you’ll need to clove hitch into the anchor, trad-dad style. The name is because the FA of this route included an extremely elaborate, and successful marriage proposal!

P1. (5.10a) After a small roof enjoy steep slab with good scoops. Belay on a large grassy ledge. Extend the anchor 20’ if you plan on top roping (or hammer in two bolts in the empty holes I left at the top of the pitch). 85’ 9 bolts.

P2. (5.10a) Wonderful steep slab to a small belay ledge. 75’ 8 bolts.

P3. (4th Class) Walk left on the small grassy ledge. 45’ 2 bolts.

P4. (5.10a) Another vertical start gives way to a slab with an exciting no hands traverse left across a good foot rail. The crux is the last 30’ where the wall steepens, but is thankfully featured with great holds. Belay on large grassy ledge. 115’ 12 bolts

P5. (5.10b) Obtuse dihedral to an awesome roof with insane cave huecos. Belay on a small ledge. 70’ 9 bolts

P6. (5.10c) Continue up the slab then clip the bolt above the ledge with a stiffy draw or place a #2 cam instead. Crank on pockets up and left onto the tip of the summit prow. You could cheat out right, but you'd be a bit runnout and would rob yourself of an exciting finish! 60’ 7 bolts.

Descend by making five rappels. Skip the traverse pitch, instead rappel to the large ledge, and walk right to the first pitch anchor to make one more rappel. I'm not sure if a 60m rope will work, maybe.

"The One"

Top Shelf

Become The Sun

Bat Wing

House Of Pain

Better Than Bullion

This is a pitch above the shared anchor for Bat Wing, Top Shelf, and House Of Pain. This pith has some of the best golden limestone at any of our local crags. Climb a steep golden prow with some really unique movement. Bolted comfortably.

From the 9th bolt of Bat Wing, head straight up onto the slab and traverse left over the roof to a short crux; an off balance lunge with a bolt above your head. After the crux, place a .5 cam, then a .4 on the arete.

The 12a is just one move, and borderline 11d. Great intro to the grade.

Great climb summiting out the highest point at Cecilville. From the base, you can look up and see a significant overhanging pillar that looks almost insurmountable. Each pitch pulls through awesome overhangs and aretes. The route is well protected and an excellent introduction to multi-pitch at the grade. The first pitch also makes a super convenient 5.10b warm up for the other nearby routes.

P1. (5.10b) Slab to juggy overhang. At the 6th bolt, traverse left briefly to some hidden jugs, then climb right around the arête. Belay on a comfortable triangular ledge. 10 bolts, 85’.

P2. (5.10c) Scramble left along a ledge then pull a potent little bulge (find the jug). Then climb the right side of the arête to another triangular belay ledge. 6 bolts, 35’.

P3. (5.10d) Traverse up and left using several slings on steep and supper juggy orange stone. The crux comes with a towering finish. Stay direct on clean stone and throw for a jug. Can be linked with pitch two with extra slings. 10 bolts, 70’

P4. (5.10a) Run up a 5.0 slab, with an optional .75 cam. Clip the bolt above the slab with a sling and gun it up an overhaning arête. Finish standing on the summit. 8 bolts, 70’

Descent: Make four rappels. The first rappeller should clip a few draws on the way down the 3rd pitch to ensure you reach the next anchor.

Scramble up a mantley slab, then make a long juggy overhanging traverse. When the bolts stop traversing, go straight up (the crux throw just above the 7th bolt). Walk right across a grassy ledge and climb attentively to avoid sharp rock at the 5.8 finish with an optional natural thread.

From the 8th bolt of Bat Wing, cut left to the underside of the roof, pulling on the rails and jugs. At the point of the roof, jump, jump, jump around [the corner]. It's a great idea to climb Bat Wing first to pre-place the nut with a sling.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 3. Broken Buttress