Start underneath the far right side of the chockstone (see Post Road), and climb up into a small, left-facing corner.  After you pass a small bulge to the right, begin traversing (if you traverse higher at the large horizontal it will be slightly harder, doable, but if short may be doing blind cam placements).  Continue to traverse and move up until underneath another left-facing corner (this felt like the crux to me).  Climb up this left-facing corner to the large ledge, and then finish up somewhat easier climbing on the face to the right.

Franny's Folly

Intertwine

Karen's Folly

Blue Route

Blow Up

Blue Angel

Thin Line

Summer Wishes

Post Road (aka Black Route)

The Recidivist

Smoky

Outersite

Look for a large chockstone/roof to the right of Intertwine. Climb the open book below the chockstone/roof. The vertical crack leading to the roof looks like an ideal place for a cam, but it's not. The crack will eat your cam and or it will be a pain to remove. At the stance beneath the roof, place a #3 Camalot in the horizontal crack and a #1 Camalot in the right hand portion of the same crack. When you begin to climb into the offwith, there will be a nice hold for your left hand above your head. Use this hold to get yourself in a nice position to begin lay backing the crux. Continue lay backing until you can get yourself in the offwith.  

  You can either top out to the right or rappel from the chained anchor used on Intertwine. 

  Note: When climbing through the crux, make sure you keep the rope between your legs in the event you fall.

One of the 5.8 jewels of Crow Hill, Intertwine is a popular fingers-to-hands crack that protects well and challenges both leaders and topropers. Begin by working up a corner or by protecting in the corner and moving up the blunt right arete to the short ledge at the base of the right-trending diagonal crack. The crack leads to a ledge, where a chain around a thread can be backed up for an anchor. EDIT: it is reported that a 2-bolt anchor has been installed. 

  Rappel, top out (easiest to the right, medium and hard by other routes), or TR a variety of nearby routes from the ledge.

Climb the offwidth under the huge chockstone and exit left. The exit right is Post Road (5.7).

This route follows the obvious, left-angling crack just to the left of Intertwine (5.8+).  Belay from somewhere along the long ramp.  Finish by following the second pitch of The Chimney (5.6 G) or exit up right to the Intertwine ledge and rappel from the chains.

Follow an easy ramp up and right approximately ten feet right of the bolted anchor for Intertwine. At the end of the ramp pull a large roof at a vertical crack (#2 cam). Watch for thorns and poison Ivy halfway up the ramp. This makes a great extension to any of the routes below it.

This is the "weird, steep face climb" to the right of Outersite. This route sees very little traffic and goes up the steep face above the flake on the first pitch of Outersite. Pumpy and awkward face moves lead up the face with dubious pro to a ledge below an overhang. Finish either via the large roof onto an awkward ramp or straight up the center on a bouldery sequence of steep moves. 

  This is a good route and is seldom done, possibly because of a very vague description in the Boston Rocks guidebook. It feels harder than the grade would suggest.

This is the classic, steep, face and finger crack about 15 feet right of Franny's Folly. It is stout for the grade with two pitons protecting the crux and a right-handed side-pull. A climber has recently indicated that the lower pin may be somewhat less than reliable. As I have never taken a fall on it, I cannot vouch for this, but caution should be used in using this pin (as of May 2012 both pins were still in place). Start on an easy slab up to the crack where the face gets really steep. There is a sustained crux past two pins (suspect) then a slight traverse to easier ground and the anchor.

This ascends the face just to the right of Intertwine. Look for a couple old pins on the way (they may be gone, it has been a few years since I have been on it). The route arcs left and joins Intertwine just below the ledge (at the crux).

Climb the very thin finger crack on the far right side of the wall. A short bouldery start gives way to a standing ledge and the base of the main crack of the route. The crack, far too thin to jam, is best laybacked along side some decent holds on the face, bringing you to a large horizontal. From here, the original line cuts right and tops out as soon as possible, but it's only slightly more difficult and a good bit more fun to continue up and left on more face holds for a more consistent experience.

Smoky is a variation of Thin Line. Start heading right and up towards the flake after the very first ledge. Go around the flake, and head up to the ledges. Do the same finish as Thin Line once you make it to the last ledge before the finish.

The first pitch of this route follows a thin crack up the arete on the east face of the buttress.  It briefly joins The Chimney at the big, right-facing flake near the top of its first pitch.  The moves are fun and the protection is good.  An anchor can be set up near the start of the easy ramp. 

  According to the Boston Rocks guidebook, the second pitch is supposed to go "up and right on a steep wall."  The topo sketch they have is not much more detailed, and so to the best of my knowledge, I believe the route is supposed to finish somewhat to the left of the smaller overhang under the pine tree at the top.  I didn't find protection on this part of the face and tried going up slightly to the right where the options for gear seemed better.  I think that might actually be another route though (Blue Angel, a 5.8) and the protection wasn't that great either.  I backed off and finished the second pitch of The Chimney instead.  If anyone has more definitive information on this route, please message me and I'll update this description.  Alternatively, I hope to get back on this and give it another shot. 

  I gave this route a PG-13 rating but only for the second pitch.  Because I had so much trouble finding the route, it may actually be better or possibly worse.  I don't know.

The Main Face starts at the 3-foot step up to the base of Intertwine and ends at the right side of the practice face. It sees a lot of traffic from leaders and top ropers, alike, as it offers the highest concentration of moderate climbs. Although the area sees a reasonable amount of sun, the right side stays wet longer than the rest of the cliff (and longer than any rock in the state, probably).

Description

Protection

Routes in 5. Main Face