The crux pitch features a stout roof and then a continuous, technical arete section. Nice moves on good rock in an gorgeous, exposed location.

Climb up the corner, the approach pitch, with a few medium pieces for protection (60 feet, 5.7) to the belay bolts.

The line of bolts that starts ten [feet] from the belay and goes to the left of the roof is the start to the Vanishing and Phantom Bridge.  Instead, run it out (20 feet 5.7) to a bolt under the large roof.  Go up the roof past three bolts (12b), shake out, and continue up and a bit left to climb a line of bolts just right of the arete.  (This is between The Vanishing, which is left of the arete, and Phantom Bridge, which climbs an inside corner to the right).

Vanishing Ink

The Vanishing

Werner's Legacy

The Producers

Dreamer's Dream

Rock Doc

Standback

Diggerdido

Orion

Phantom Bridge

Alpine-Moe (formerly Dihedral Dude)

Another quality route on the Vanishing Point, Phantom Bridge follows the bolt line under the large roof and around to the right of the arete and up the prominent dihedral.  This route also starts at the belay anchors at the bottom of the formation.  A long runner at the start of the traverse under the roof helps a lot to reduce rope drag for the upper section.  Be EXTREMELY careful of the large loose block at this section as well, as dislodging it will cause it to fall directly on to your belayer!  It may not be a serious risk right now, but it gives a deep reverberating hollow sound when you knock on it.

A quality route up the Vanishing Point formation, The Vanishing leads up the spectacular arete that defines the formation.  Start at the bottom of the formation (there is a belay anchor), and climb up left for 5 bolts before traversing above the roof to gain the arete.  Balancy thin moves lead to a crux at the last bolt before an easy last 10 feet.  I'll give it two stars for position and good rock, but it may be a bit overgraded (although consistent with the rest of the Dream Canyon sport climbs).

Great beginner's sport route on lower south rib of Vanishing Point. Starts off 5.6, continually get harder to the top, following an arete. Approach is same as for Midnight Rock, but go all the way to the creek, and hike downstream until you get to the arete.

This climb begins from a right-slanting crack/ledge below The Vanishing and Vanishing Ink. A 3rd-class ramp leads to a belay. The Producers takes a series of left-facing corners just left of the belay. It is between two arete climbs, and shares the top anchor with the left of these climbs.

Route description from

vainokodas.com/climbing/cor…

used with permission.

Climb the wavy grey and white arete right of

Standback

past bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Climb steep face and arete, with sheer ending.

This is located on the multicolred wall right of

Phantom Bridge

, up above

Werner's Legacy

. Climb the sheer edge filled face past several bolts to a two bolt anchor.  75 feet.

Climbs up crack system to the roof, crux, right of

Dreamer's Dream

, then follows the arete to a two bolt anchor.

Crux is turning small roofed section via dangling finger lock.  The best .11 crack climb in the canyon.

Start 30 feet left of Werner's Legacy on a wall that faces the creek.  Climb a steep headwall past four bolts, then run up an easy slab (optional small gear) to a second headwall.  Climb past two more bolts and continue up another easy slab to a 2-bolt anchor at 95'.

There are no rappel rings on the anchor, so belay from the top, bring your partner up, then downclimb to the left.

Directly above the anchor are two more bolted routes: a left-facing corner and an arete just to the right. A third bolted route climbs up a face left of the anchor.  All routes are well-bolted and look to be of high quality.  Has anyone done these routes?

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Vanishing Point