This climb is a north facing route that offers some fine Diablo moderate trad climbing that is usually free from crowds. It is a good choice on a hot day. Start up a moderate off width in a left facing dihedral and continue to some wide hands to hands out the top with dependable gear placements all of the way up. Bolted anchors were eventually put on this route because we were getting tired of having to jump or down climb off of the island.

The Skipper Too

Ectoplasm

Hanging by a Thread

Larcombe's Lament (aka Dog Bite at Diablo)

A fun route with a thin but short crux. Start left of a wide crack at the base of the east-facing wall. Good ledges lead up to the third bolt. Move through thin holds past the fourth bolt. Some holds look like they are chalked up but it could be bird crap...  Fun moves lead past the fifth and sixth bolt to the anchor.

Climb through jugs on the gently overhanging arete past the first 4 bolts. After clipping the 4th bolt, crank through some small crimps and pinch the arete to gain access to bigger holds (crux). Keep it together as you move up a lieback corner with bad feet. Cruise past the last couple of bolts to the anchors.

Clip the low first bolt from leaning across the small gap at the base. Then pull on awkward, sloping holds to a decent crimp to clip the second bolt. Getting to this point is the crux so a stick clip or attentive belayer is a good idea.  Fun, positive arête climbing continues past four more bolts to the anchor.

This is a nice little island crag that offers some nice moderate climbing away from the crowds and lookey-lous typically encountered at Diablo. The rock is good and offers both sun and shade for whatever season you are there. There are great views from on top of the island. Some guide books have referred to this as the Alcove. The crux used to be getting off of the island, which is no longer an issue.Note that historically a handful of climbs on the southwest side of the Island had been included in the Alcove area.  That side of the Island has had ~15 climbs added to it in recent years and is referred to as Mordor nowadays.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Gilligan's Island (a.k.a. The Alcove)