Low-angled slab to start which gradually steepens higher to provide a less-than-vertical crux before the anchors which are below a steep headwall.

Named Route 1056 in the 1986 edition of the Joshua Tree Guide as the FA party was unknown at the time; that's been cleared up now.

Shaggy Dog (aka Route 1056)

Resurrection

Rejuvenation

Unwed Mudders

What's Left

Lust We Forget

Candy Grabber

This route is clearly visible from the road.  It's on the southern end of all the Cove Corridor formations, just left of Shaggy Dog.  It is 2 short pitches, and has a short approach.

The first pitch is slabby and has a couple of bolts on it. The second pitch ascends a thin crack on aid. There is some fixed junk on the aid pitch, left by the first ascent party. One irritating thing about the aid pitch is this ramp that parallels the aid pitch at the start; constant reminder that you wouldn't want to pop a piece and hit the ramp.

Descent is down a crack/gully system to the south (tricky at the very bottom; maybe a short rappel at the end?)

This route is OK, sort of safe, and somewhat fun and interesting. (Still want to do it?)

Gear- you decide. Bring aid gear, and some stuff to set up a gear belay at the top of pitch one. Maybe a few pins?

This climb is best done in two pitches.  The first pitch is mainly chimneying.  The crux is a short, well-protected face at the top.

This is a chimney climb with poor protection and loose rock.

Climb the first part of Lust We Forget. Move right into another crack system, and follow this to the top.  It's rather strenuous and tricky for a 5.7

Climb the chimney until you reach a left slanting crack.  Follow the crack via insecure, runout climbing.  Traverse left onto the face and climb up (fun) to the crux exit move.

A thin crack down low takes you up to a very short hard section, and then a wider crack and the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in South Cave Rock