Follow bolt line past overlaps at 1/3 and 2/3 height with classic low angle technical Shield climbing in between. Near the top pull up and over the larger roof to anchor.

Fandango

Nhervus Sheep

La Bamba

Frida's Bone

McFlatus Roof Variation

The Hunter

Naughty Guides

McFlatus Roof

P-G-T

Dengue Fever

Georgia's Fly

Easy climbing leads to a high first bolt above a small roof where the route's thin, technical crux is encountered. Above, the thin face climbing keeps you on your toes, literally and figuratively between the modestly spaced bolts. The difficulty gradually eases before the upper roof is encountered. Good climbing and great holds takes you through the roof. Above, thin, slabby face climbing again keeps you on edge until you reach the anchor. Great rock is found throughout this climb.

An insanely hard low crux (or so I thought) leads to slightly easier climbing, which then leads to an interesting roof. Technical! Try to catch it in the shade, or you'll be hating life.

Careful moving past the first bolt.

Awesome face climbing down low that's not too hard, yet not too easy. The roof is pure fun!

Classic low angle Shield terrain leads to a steep blocky section at halfway. Continue on varied wonderful climbing straight up toward the gigantic roof to find chains that are shared with Georgia's Fly.

Climbs moderate terrain for 2 bolts before connecting with the regular McFlatus Roof route. While this variation is listed in the McFlatus Roof route description, I felt like it deserved its own description here because it avoids the hard face crux at the bottom of McFlatus Roof. Instead, the roof at the top of the pitch is the crux. It's a nice way to avoid that hard face move, perhaps making it a better warm-up for those wary of starting out on something crimpy right off the deck.

Follow the vague crack system up past the right end of the steep terrain at half height. Continue straight up past a few more bolts to a more broken section of the huge roof. Pull it up and right to chains shared with Naughty Guides and La Bamba.

Another fun 10a. Slightly trickier than its neighbor to the right (La Bamba), yet just as fun. Thin slab just before the roof. Both of these routes are quite polished. Best not to do them in the summer sun.

Very enjoyable face climbing on great edges (some of them flakes) leads to a large roof. Clip the bolt, feel around, and pull the thing! There's a pin in a horizontal crack right above the lip... clip it if you must, but beware of rope drag. The fall would be fine without clipping the pin.

There's a variation that sports an independent start just left of McFlatus, then joins with it below the roof.

Two pitch Pownall-Gilkey training route. Left side of the overhang is a hanging left facing mini corner. Climb steep bottom, then traverse right on ledge into "The Bulge' Belay from bolts. Pitch 2: Climb 5.6 slab with small cam protection to bolt anchor, Rap 40 m

Follow the bolt line that aims for the leftmost and lowest part of the big roof above. Continue up over nice and varying terrain to the big roof before heading up and right to the chains below the roof that are shared with Frida's Bone (10-).

**Former sparsely protected trad route, now with bolts thanks to Greg Miles!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 3. McFlatus Roof Area