Climb an easy slab for 15 feet to a steep finger crack (5.9) for 10 feet then exit left to a subtle notch at a small roof. Head up a beautiful arching left facing corner. As the corner peters out left, climb over a steep roof and out onto a thin slab. Move up a delicate and sustained slab (.10c), passing three bolts along the way. Most agree that the crux encountered at the third bolt before reaching a decent incut and eventually the anchors. Rappel 110' to the ground OR continue up and left to a beautiful arete known as 'Straircase Arete' (5.7). Anchor bolts at the top of the arete allow for an overhanging rappel down to anchors 55' directly below to a route known as 'Wishful Thinking' (.10c)

Whine And Spirits

Whoop Dee Do

High Spirits

Staircase Arete

Hocus Pocus

Pitch #1:

Climb up to a subtle right facing corner, ascending over a few overlaps. The crux is encountered while passing the 3rd bolt (.10a) and moving over one of the overlaps. After the crux, the route eases up a bit. Pass two more bolts before reaching a chained 2-bolt belay. (140')

Pitch #2:

From the belay, move up and left to a bolt. From the bolts, head up to some parallel cracks above (a little runout but moderate). These cracks lead to a large ledge. From the right side of the ledge, continue by moving up and out right to pass an overhang. Once past the overhang, move slightly left and up to a chained 2-bolt near the top of the rock. Use this chained anchor to rappel the route.

This is another nice addition to Spirit Rock, which parallels 'Hocus Pocus' to the left for the most part. Pitch 1 is all bolted, while Pitch 2 is a mix of bolts and small gear. This route is mostly east facing and receives morning to afternoon sun before going into the shade later in the afternoon. In summer, it's best to do this one later in the day.

*Note

: this route requires either (2) 60 meter ropes

OR

(1) 80 meter rope to rap the route.

Pitch 1 (110'):

Step up onto the apron and friction to the first bolt (15'), following a shallow left facing corner that turns into a seam. Clip the next 2 bolts before reaching a series of narrow ledges. Pass the ledges to the 4th bolt. Move right then up from the 4th bolt. The real business starts at the 5th bolt (.10a). Be sure to put a runner on the 5th bolt. Move out right and work up a thin crack to a seam (be careful when using the thin flake left of the bolt....it flexes!). Continue up past the last 2 bolts (5.9) before reaching the 2-bolt ring anchor.

Pitch 2 (130'):

From the anchors, move out left and up. There's a small cam placement a body length above. Continue straight up to the first bolt then pass a section of patchy moss (tricky friction). Look for possible gear placements along the way between the first and second bolt. After reaching the second bolt, climb to a large ledge (know as the 'Smiley Ledge' when viewed at a distance) with large flakes leaning against the wall on the left side of the ledge. Climb up on these large flakes to reach a bolt. Traverse left to a right facing corner (good pro). Climb the corner to its apex and surmount the small roof to a bolt. Once at the bolt head up and right to a 2-bolt anchor, equipped with a quick link and a carabiner. Rap the route.

Head up to to the base of a large flake (4th class) and belay at the base. From the base of the flake, ascend the face up to an obvious crack, just left of the right facing corner of the flake. Follow three bolts to a bolted belay at a large ledge. Optional: ascend easy 5th to the summit for another 50'. A set of rap anchors are located on the summit, which are shared with 'Hocus Pocus'. Requires a two rope rappel.

A beautiful striking arete that appears from the base of 'Whine And Spirits. From the anchors of 'Whine and Spirits', move up and left on easy 5th class toward the left edge of the arete. Once at the arete, climb the left edge of the arete, passing horizontal cracks along the way (pro to 1"). While you're on the arete, take a short pause and take in the view and position....breathtaking! Once at the top of the arete, place gear and pull up into a mini hueco/"baby bathtub" where the anchors are located. Rappel from the anchors onto the west face (overhanging) for 55' to a two bolt anchor (1st pitch anchors for 'Wishful Thinking'). From those anchors. rap another 100'.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Spirit Rock