Start on a crumbly and steep crack which is tough for the grade I think. Interesting move to get established, then I got in some small cams and nuts and progressed with some trouble. Above another 20 feet is a 6-7 foot hand crack through an A-frame roof. The hand crack continues another 12 feet or so to a ledge. The roof is really fun jamming and stemming, and probably three stars in itself. But given the limited variety at the crag and the lower quality start, I couldn't give this more than a single star total. Worth doing though.

Roofer Madness

Fair Thee Well

Flare Thee Well

Lots of junky, some funky and wee bit of monkey will get you up this gem. The guidebook has the description spot-on with the multiple use of the word "rotten".  This has to be the most crumbly granite in the area but the route does offer some unique/difficult moves to get established.  Be prepared to have crumbly feet and potentially removable hand holds.Climb out under the roof, maybe cut the feet loose and establish yourself into the crack above.  I used a #5 and #4 in the beginning. The climbing eases off once past the roof but the gear is not the best until higher up on the route.Falling seems like a bad idea on this route.  Gear belay and small palo verde for anchor.

 

This is the left crack out of the v groove. The start looks extra chossy but has great pro in the corner. Tiny cams are gold here, the rock gets worse till a small “roof” with Bush. Get over lip and jam your way up a killer crack to the top.

These crags sit across the valley from the Loaf on a SW facing hillside. Not many routes, crumbly rock, but excellent views of Mcdowell mountains and adjacent climbing areas.  

  The routes on Fairweather wall appeared to have significantly exfoliating rock and so we chose not to climb them. 

  After climbing here you can scramble back across the hillside to the routes at Loaf, Torrid Wall and Trundling pinnacles (etc...). This is a bit of a bushwack. We did this after climbing Roofer Madness and found a beehive directly at the base of Desert Solitaire. Peter got stung in the head so we chose not to climb it this day.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Roofer Madness and Fairweather Walls