Climb a steep, bolted slab at the base of the canyon. There is an optional 2nd pitch,

Follow That Thief

, 5.9+.

The Cookie Thief

Race Bannon

Follow That Thief

Freemason

Captain Underpants

Planck Time

Grumpy Old Climber

Training Wheels

Big Squirrels Don't Cry

Mason Man

Ricochet Rabbit

It is best to toprope off

Captain Underpants'

anchors. This climbs the dihedral just right of

Captain Underpants

.

Stem up to the first bolt, then climb tricky moves up a vertical wall to a featured slab. Easier climbing up and left leads up to the headwall. A hard- to-read and powerful crux gains a great jug and a nice finish.

This is the 2nd pitch of

The Cookie Thief

. It follows the black dihedral and can be done as one long pitch, but you will feel the rope drag. Also you will miss a belay with great views.

Climb ledges to start, then continue on facey chickenheads/grooves and then slab. The crux is at the bolt.

A 70m rope works best, but you can use a 60m but will need scramble up and down the 3rd Class slab for 15 to 20 feet. Start on a large ledge, scramble up the easy slab to high 1st bolt, and climb the slab.

This climbs a steep ramp that traverses left, thin and technical. Start by climbing

Captain Underpants

to the belay, then do a 40 foot traverse of the plank, then go up 18 feet. This has some tricky climbing to start at the 1st bolt. The crux is near the 4th bolt - stick your left knee in your left ear.

Warning for the 2nd climber: unclip the 4 bolt after you do the two crux moves. If you blow it, you may not be able get back on the route.

Climb an easy dihedral flake to shallow cracks just left

Captain Underpants

.

Note: at the top, the large chickenheads are rock solid. They look loose from below.

Start at the back of the canyon on the left, climb up to a ledge, and follow a dihedral. There maybe a 2nd pitch in future.

Mason Man has a burly start. Place gear in the left-facing dihedral, and the climbing eases up and joins

Freemason

towards the top.

Many thanks to Alex Andrews for helping to establish these two routes!

Ping, Ping, Pinggggg!!!!

Climb featured black rock just right of a dirty flake on the right side of the Pooka Canyon. Continue up red and equally featured rock to the bulging headwall. Powerful, exposed climbing up the headwall leads to the anchor.

A helmet for the belayer is not a bad idea. We cleaned all the loose stuff we could find, but anything that comes down will go ping, ping, pinging down both walls of the canyon....

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 2. Canyon Amphitheater